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Bicycle Tour Adventure #39: South Tyrol, Italy, Day 12

Lana: Early Saturday Morning; Oktober 1 - Oktoberfest
The morning view from our bedroom window across the Apple Orchard. The morning view from our bedroom window across the Apple Orchard.
Above: The morning view (west) from our bedroom window across the Apple Orchard - good Morning Mr Sunshine.

Ray and I were originally going to meet in Munich, Germany, on 1 Oktober, because Munich is Ground Zero for the entire planet for celebrating Oktoberfest. But 8 months before, when we were booking rooms, we discovered that a single bed that normally goes for €40-45 at a pension was going for €350 on the 2011, 1 Oktober weekend (for one person). So, knowing that we could spend that kind money better somewhere else, we changed our meeting area, from Munich to Ray's home town, Lana, South Tyrol (Italy).
Breakfast. Terry is waiting for the camera guy.
Above Left: Breakfast is part of the room cost at the German Apple Farm Pension in Vilpian, South Tyrol (Italy). The good news is that we did not have to learn two languages, our (limited) German is the main language spoken around here.

Above Right: Terry is waiting for the camera guy, so that we may break fasting. A special smoked sliced ham and soft boiled egg is served without question. Kafe was fresh brewed and no one could believe that Terry did not drink coffee, it is unheard of, and the proprietress took special delight in serving Terry Heiße Schokolade, each morning.

The front of the Apfel Obstgarten [Apple Orchard] Pension. The Tyrol Mountain view across the tree tops.
Above Left: The front of the Apfel Obstgarten [Apple Orchard] Pension. This is a farm house; it is an operating Apfel Farm that lets out space in some of its many bedrooms. We are only here due to effort by Ray and Letizia and their son Norman and Norman's girl friend. The area is feeling the crowding effects of Italians celebrating Oktoberfest in any German speaking cultural area.

Above Right: The Tyrol Mountain view across the tree tops. We are nourished and satiated, it's time to head for Ray and Letizia's place and build a bike.






Quick and Relevant South Tyrol History

See Austria for the lead-up to the South Tyrol and Tyrol Trentino States (called Alto Adige and Trentino, respectively, by the Italian government).

After WWI had started, the Entente (the War Governing Body formed by Representatives of the Allied Nations) offered the Italian government the Counties of South Tyrol and Tyrol Trentino if Italy would join forces. Some say that it was already clear that the Allied forces of The Great War were going to defeat the Germans and the Austrian-Hungarian forces. Italy joined the Allies. Italy had occupied the region since 1915 until the war's end in November, 1918. The territory was Annexed by Italy in 1919. Later, there was some German-Italian back and forth governing that concluded at Germany's loss in WWII. [Wikipedia]

For some reason, Italy was allowed remain in control of South Tyrol and Tyrol Trentino after WWII (by Allied Forces, even though Italy was an Axis Ally), even against national protests to world organizations and governments in 1946.[Wikipedia]

In 1928, the Dictator Benito Mussolini had the 'Bolzano Victory Monument' built, supposedly to acknowledge a 'Unified Italy' (even though the Tyrol area is completely German in language and culture and has not ever been considered Italian) but it was really a Tyrol Annexation Victory Monument. The monument is located in Bozen/Bolzano (German/Italian), the state capital of South Tyrol and the monument has never known peace. The monument is always under attack (symbolically and physically), even to this day - it is hated by most of the citizens of the Tyrol States. [Wikipedia]

The Italian government even tried social integration but met heavy resistance. The problem is and always will be that the citizens of the area are culturally German speaking Austrians and that is the native language. The Italian government tried to force the Italian language as the primary language and a resistance movement emerged [called the South Tyrolean Liberation Committee {Befreiungsausschuss Südtirol (BAS)}]. During post WWII times, the BAS actively destroyed or bombed strategic Italian targets in the Tyrol regions (killing some government officials, military, and some civilians [not deliberately like the IRA]). Finally, the UN became involved in 1960 and the International Court of Justice in The Hague, in 1971. It was resolved that the Tyrolean people had a right to their language and cultural history and self government. The Italian government ceded these rights and allowed the Tyrol region to have an semi-autonomous self government and peace more or less fell on the land. [Wikipedia]

The majority of the Tyroleans still dislike the Bolzano Victory Monument (whose sculptured soldier's faces look surprisingly like Mussolini). And there is an active underground movement to destroy the monument. Also, there is a persistent cultural mindset that wants the Tyrol region to return to Austrian ancestorship.

South Tyrol wants to join with North Tyrol just as much as East and West Germany wanted to re-join one another.





Ray and Letizia's Garage, Lana, South Tyrol: Mid Morning
Dennis and Terry Struck Assemble a Tandem Bicycle
two S&S Aluminum Shipping Containers hold the tandem bike. First we lay out the Main Frame.
Above Left: We are in Ray and Letizia's now empty garage. We will not ride today but we are assembling the bike just in case we need any components. Ray used to own a bike shop and has no shortage of tools, parts, or knowledge.

These are the two S&S Aluminum Shipping Containers (Suitcases). They happen to be 10"x10"x26". Therefore, the system is setup to use 26" wheels (versus the more popular 700mm wheels [about 27.25" diameter]). We have to deflate the wheels just a little to allow them to fit the cases. We carry the wheels in one suitcase and the main frame in the second suitcase. We are limited to 50 pounds for shipping and that means that both suitcases are not shipped as full as possible.

In the old days, international flights allowed 70 pounds per suitcase and we could load everything in the two cases to include some clothing. Now, we have to carry some components in our clothing suitcases (usually the seats and seat posts).

It takes a little over two hours to build a Tandem Bicycle and if one is touring and mounting panniers and associated camp gear and clothing, it takes about three hours to wheels rolling go-time.

Above Right: First we lay out the Main Frame. The black wrap is ballistic nylon that is used for shipping scratch and dent protection.

Terry is torqing down the brake rotors. Terry is mounting the rear rack.
Above Left: The frame is nearly ready for the wheels; Terry is torqing down the brake rotors.

Dennis has made a major mistake, he set the frame up on the metal cable channels and folded the retainer such that it will not hold the shifter and brake cable. It will take another 10-15 minutes to re-bend the metal cable channel walls/retainers.

Above Right: Terry is mounting the rear rack.

Terry is mounting the bottle cages. Letizia rewards us with an Italian Luncheon.
Above Left: Ray drops in to check our progress - it is good. Terry is mounting the bottle cages. Seats and a test ride come next. The test ride revealed that the rear derailer's B Screw Stop (Derailer body adjustment screw stop) was out of position, thus the chain was rubbing on itself - that was an easy fix. I often have trouble mounting the B Screw Stop appropriately on this bike - it just is not intuitive to me - most derailers use a stop on the frame, not on the derailer.

Background: There is an Old Joke that Tandem Bicycles are Divorce Machines for couples that can't seem to work together (there is some truth in the joke).

Ray Asked: How is it going?

Dennis Answered (Cheerfully): We're still married! [Insert Chuckle Here].

The final test drive reveals that everything is OK - We park the bike for tomorrow's use. It's lunch time.

Above Right: Letizia rewards us with an Italian Luncheon. Yum, it's good!

Ray and Letizia are in the kitchen setting a surprise for our Desert. 'Buiscuits' from 'Sainte-Mère-Église' called 'la petite Para' (Para as in Parachute).
Above Left: Ray and Letizia are in the kitchen setting a surprise for our Desert.

Above Right: Then came Desert. Ray is recently returned from Normandy
where he has studied the D-Day Invasion from multiple perspectives. Ray is a bit of a WWII history buff. He even showed me a picture, in a book, of a German Officer helping Allied Officers read a map - We would all like to know the rest of that story.

Ray came home with 'Buiscuits' from 'Sainte-Mère-Église' called 'la petite Para' (Para as in Parachute). It happens that Sainte-Mère-Église is where a soldier of the 101 Airborne was suspended in a church tower for the duration of the gun battles that played out in town - all the soldier could do was to pretend to be dead - he could not unhook himself safely without falling 60-70 feet to the ground. Lots of German Soldiers had seen him suspended there.

It is a classic French act to celebrate an event using food; it is just like making and eating Croissants (Crescents of the defeated Muslim Empire).

We had Para's with an Ice Cream like Pudding - It was very good!.

This is a cool event that we are all sharing.
Ray and Letizia are in the kitchen.
Above: Ray and Letizia are in the kitchen - It's a happy household.



Knottnkino Mountain View: After Noon
We are heading for 'Knottnkino'. We walk up hill.
Above Left: We park in a designated parking lot. The ladies are getting their gear; Ray is waiting for me to snap off a few shots. We will hike from here. I seem to recall that it was only a couple of kilometers (which is about as far as I can hike - It's an intermittent ankle/tendon issue not an endurance issue).
We are heading for 'Knottnkino'. It is a place on a mountain overview that looks at the Adige River Valley somewhere between Meran and Vilpian, Italy. It is quite the panoramic view. In German, 'Knottn' means Rocks and 'Kino' means Cinema. At the viewing location metal seats have been added (similar to theater seats but made of stainless steel) where one can sit and contemplate the view (or life). Ray and Letizia are sharing their part of the world with us, we are honored.
Above Right: We walk up hill to a point that leads us in between the far house and the barn. It is very trusting of the farmer to allow this access; places like this in the USA have banned hikers (because of bad behavior). We are, at the moment, heading for the clear break on the ridgeline of this picture, then turning right (south) to follow the ridgeline to the overview area.

Pine trees that are heavily ladened with pinecones. The sun is showing all the air moisture and air pollutants of the Adige Valley.
Above Left: Pine trees that are heavily ladened with pinecones - this means that this area of the country is going to have the Worst Winter Ever.

Big Joke: Dennis has a running joke with the world. He tells everyone, at any indication of a sign from nature, that 'X' Nature Event means that we are about to have the Worst Winter Ever.
Above Right: Our back trail. The sun is showing all the air moisture and air pollutants of the Adige Valley.

We pass through a friendly farm area. It is not unusual for farm cats and dogs to get along with one another.
Above Left: We pass through a friendly farm area.

Above Right: It is not unusual for farm cats and dogs to get along with one another.

We walk in beauty and guidance signs. We walk in beauty and guidance signs.
Above: We walk in beauty and guidance signs.

This covered sign is common in snow country. The view is quite pastoral.
Above Left: This covered sign is common in snow country. I imaging that it is common in Tyrol, Austria, and Bavaria - We have the same concept in the Colorado mountains, but then a lot of the original farms and ranches came from German Immigrant Farmers (as in both our own ancestral families). We have also seen similar signage in Australia, also where German Immigrant Farmers exist in small communities.

Above Right: This image is a blow up of the area under the lantern in the previous picture - The view is quite pastoral.

Picture of our backtrail. Yield to Deer?
Above Left: Picture of our back trail.

Above Right: Yield to Deer? It almost looks like a Warden's Warning - Don't mess with the Deer. I asked Ray if he has ever seen wild deer here and he said 'No, I have never seen live deer anywhere in Europe'.

this is South Tyrol (Italy, formerly Austria).
Above: The lighting, at this moment favors looking to the east - This view could easily be in the Colorado Rocky Mountains, but this is South Tyrol (Italy, formerly Austria).

It's not a pose, Ray is pointing out Lana and the Alps. The Cinimatic Seats that give this location its name, Knottnkino.
Above Left: It's not a pose, Ray is pointing out Lana and the Alps, to Terry, Letizia, and Dennis. What we saw is in the images that follow.

Above Right: The Cinimatic Seats that give this location its name, Knottnkino. A Reminder: In German, 'Knottn' means Rocks and 'Kino' means Cinema.

Stainless Steel Panoramic View.
Above and Below: Same Mountains, Same Scale; Slightly Different Viewing Angle (South).
Stainless Steel Panoramic View (the actual Steel Diagram was three times as wide as seen in this image)
South Tyrol (Italy, formerly Austria).
KINO! Ray, Letizia, Terry and Dennis' shadow. It was a little warm and a little bright.
Above: KINO! Ray, Letizia, Terry and Dennis' shadow. It was a little warm and a little bright (but that is way better than gray and drizzlely - no complaints - the Weather Spirits are looking out for us).

This was awesome cool!

The valley runs Southeast. The valley runs Northwest.
Above: The valley runs Southeast to Northwest. It happens that, in the peaks to the near the far right upper point, is the location of the Ice Man featured in National Geographic, July of 2007 (Discovery) and November of 2011 (Autopsy).

Cliff's view of Meran (Merano)to the northeast.
Above: Cliff's view of Meran (Merano) to the northeast.

Close, the actual time is 3:50 PM (1550 Htr). Grazed forest land.
Above Left: Close, the actual time is 3:50 PM (1550 Hrs).

Above Right: Grazed forest land.

A peek into the barn as we walk downhill. this looks like a fruit tree.
Above Left: A peek into the barn as we walk downhill.

Above Right: A view almost due north, along the walk; this looks like a fruit tree, I missed it, but this is Apple and Grape country.



Meran/Merano: Evening, Early to Late
Parish Church of Meran. Plaza of the Merano Spa Hotel.
Above Left: Pfarrkirche St Nikolaus (Parish Church) of Meran - The sun is setting.

Above Right: Plaza of the Merano Spa Hotel. We happened to catch an Um Pah band walking in for a show. We walked through the Spa but felt that it was in appropriate to take pictures.

Meran/Merano is a resort town whose natural hot baths usage seems to date back before recorded history, to include use in early Christendom as a road stop. In the 1300s Merano became the Tyrolean Capital and the Tyrolean Counts lived in Meran although the power slowly shifted to Innsbruck. Meran and its popularity increased dramatically when Impress Elisabeth (Sisi) of the House Hapsburg frequented the community on a regular basis in the 1870s. The town has a statue dedicated to her; she, like many Hapsburgs, met with a tragic end.

The Ski slopes of Meran make for perfect skiing because the town's elevation at 321 Meters allows for warm weather days in the town while the 2000 Meter ski slopes are high enough and cold enough to hold Alp snow for downhill and cross country skiing on south (sun) facing slopes. Skiing in Meran-o is particularly popular among Italian, Austrian, and German skiers.

Merano is known for its promenade of shops and cafés. Interestingly, Merano was one of the first towns to go digital and offer GPS location information for location services.
Passer/Pasirio River. Promenade store window.
Above Left: Passer/Pasirio River (as in, it is next to the road, Via Passo Glovo, that leads to the pass). It has trout and trout fishing.

Above Right: Promenade store window.

Promenade view.
Above: Promenade view. The streets were one of the first city streets deliberately designed to use rain to clean out waste and debris.

Promenade views at sunset. Promenade views at sunset.
Above: Promenade views at sunset.

Meat shop. One of the town plazas.
Above Left: Siebenförcher Meat Shop, very famous, especially for its thin sliced cuts of smoked ham. Ray and Letizia served us meat from this store for the previous night's late snack - Yum.

Above Right: One of the town plazas.

The Parish Church of Merano. A religious mural is disappearing over time.
Above Left: The Parish Church of Merano.

Above Right: A religious mural is disappearing over time.

Brass plaque with Latitude, Longitude, Elevation, and a North-South Compass. Gate in the Old City Wall.
Above Left: At first it looks like a manhole cover, but it is in the center of a plaza in the middle of a coble stone compass with the cardinal points in a different colored stone. The brass plaque has the Latitude, Longitude, Elevation in meters (321), and a North-South Compass. It appears to be right out of the 'daVinci Code' novel. It has two years stamped, 1993 and 1995, we don't know the significance.

Above Right: Gate in the Old City Wall. After we went through the gate with Ray and Letizia, we stopped at a café and sampled desserts and drinks. Dennis tries Sambucca, made from a local herb.

Impress Elisabeth (Sisi) of the House Hapsburg. Impress Elisabeth (Sisi) of the House Hapsburg.

Above: Impress Elisabeth (Sisi) of the House Hapsburg.

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