Getting Started (for New and Experienced Cyclists):     Planning Metrics, How Much Do I Carry,     Travel Leg Management, Planning Traps,     Bicycle Configurations, Body Conditioning,     How to Choose a Touring Bicycle,     Road (Survival) Rules and Positive Actions, Long Distance Bicycle Hire/Rental Issues Group Cycling, Group Touring, and Group Issues:     Organization, Food and Logistics, Signals     Self-Contained Group Camping Issues,     Supplies/Equipment, Group Communication,     Decision Issues and Remote Communication Expedition: Touring Issues, Tool Kit Checklist,     Tandem Bicycle Touring, Nature and Wild Life

Related Subject Pages

Bicycle Shipping and Transporting Tour Planning and Issues (Foreign and Domestic) Travel and Cultural Things to Know Bicycle Touring (Survival) Tips The Bicycle Touring Checklist

About Bicycle Touring

"It is better to travel well
than to arrive."

Buddha

             

For Prospective Cyclists!

Bicycle touring is exciting! It is fun to share the experience with a friend and/or family. Get one's self, bike, and gear into a situation where everything can travel from Point A to Point B and spend the night there and then, either, go back to Point A the next day or ride onto point C. It does not have to be a big distance and motels are just as acceptable as camping. Many people have never camped before and it may be wise to avoid the stress of learning too many new things at the same time. Also, if the reader is new to camping, consider looking for some help or advice from experienced travelers. In any case, work from a plan that allows one to learn in steps and be able to make repairs or adjustments to everyone's learning experience.
The learning process is exhilarating.

When riders have developed confidence for basic bicycle tour travel, then direct new efforts to learn about and perform transport to and from different places via car/truck, bus, plane, and/or train, which ultimately is leading to foreign travel. Bicyclists have one advantage right from the beginning because almost everyone worldwide respects a person brave enough to tour by bike, no matter their nationality. In fact, foreign travelers are usually extra respected because of their courage and effort to visit another land and its people, in person.

For Every One

Be sure to also visit the Tour Planning Process for a few more good ideas to support good Tour Planning. The following hints are additional situational issues that come from actual tour experiences.

"The Tour is The Journey"
- Anonymous

Bike Tour Planning Metrics (For Self Contained Tour Loads, aka 'Fully Loaded'):

For Planning Purposes (For Self Contained Tour Loads):

• Road Touring: *10.0 MPH (hard pack or asphalt);
  Expect 7.0 MPH for dirt/gravel road, wet, or wind conditions.



• Mountain Touring: *7.5 MPH (dirt road),
  Expect 5.5 MPH for single track, rocks, or wet conditions.


Times



• Plan & Target for 6 Hours of Cycling Time / per Day
  (The cyclists adjust for known long/short or difficult stints* and allow for people/place/event visits).


Which works out to (For Self Contained Tour Loads):



• On a Road Touring Bike (non-mountain and mostly paved roads):
• 55-65 miles a day is comfortable and allows for a couple of tourist stops/visits per day.
• 65-80 miles a day is a push.


• On a Mountain Touring Bike (on mountains or mostly dirt roads):
• 40-50 miles per day allows for a couple of tourist stops/visits per day.
• 50-60 miles per day on a bike with panniers and/or a trailer makes for an arduous day (fully loaded).

Some Caveats:
* On tours of ten or more days, it is not unusual that on at least one day the cyclist will need to travel 80-90 miles in one day and typically the reason has to do with food, water, shelter, or climate.
- These metrics are for adults.
- Most people who exceed these long evolved formulas either do not have a good time or they develop physical injuries (like blown knees) or they get so sore that they quit the journey and they may never return to cycling again. This is especially important to the other riders invited to join.
- Schedule at least one non-cycling day per seven days - This is often called a Down Day, a Self Maintenance Day, or a Bike Maintenance Day. These Down Days are usually better scheduled in a larger town with an open bicycle shop, grocery store, and a wash facility.
- For bicycle tours that go through areas that are rich in culture or history, allow adequate time for people to visit attractions or events (which are often the real reasons for the tour).

How Much to Carry on a Bicycle Tour:

OBJECTIVE: Take the LEAST NEEDED Amount/Quantity/Volume that meets the Situational Requirements.
Every trip has different needs and everything listed isn't needed for every trip.

Philosophy: The cyclist is the engine; one can carry as much or as little as desired.

Fact - The longer that one is riding on a tour,
especially when time is measured in weeks
or months, the less that one wants to carry.

The Food and Clothing Supplies Risk/Planning Parameters:
• When resupply points are closer together (and known), then cyclists can travel lighter (light on food, light on clothing).
• When resupply points are further apart (or unknown), cyclists must carry more (more food, more clothing).

"A bicycle tour is a collection of travel legs." - Dennis Struck

Travel Leg Management (Field or Enroute Travel Planning and Control Issues)

• A Travel Leg addresses all of the logistics issues involved to get from one resupply point to the next resupply point.
• A bicycle tour is a collection of travel legs. Most planning and logistical issues in the field are centered on the concept of travel legs.
• The main variables are supplies of food and water, as most of the other supplies and gear for a bicycle tour are constants (which are generally present at the beginning of the tour and carried throughout the tour).
• The Beginning and End of a Travel Leg is a food and water resupply point.
• Travel Leg planning and accomplishment is oriented about successfully planning for and completing Travel Legs and addressing the risk of something going wrong (ergo cyclists may carry contingency supplies, especially in terms of extra food and water).



• Travel Leg Planning:



• What is needed, in terms of food and water supplies to get to the End Point of the Travel Leg (aka Resupply Point)?
• How much travel time will be involved (which determines the 'per person' meal counts and water volume needs)?
• Are there interim water resupply points (one should always have water filter(s) or a purifier system(s) and bulk water storage containers - in some situations, be prepared to ask for and/or buy 'boiled' water [or 'bottled' water])?
• Address Travel Risks, for example: one of the stoves has been increasingly problematic, fix or replace it?.


• Travel Leg Characteristics: One starts a tour with appropriate clothing and gear (see checklists), so except for repair and replacement, these things typically are not enroute issues (they are destination / resupply point issues).
  
  Generally:


• 45% of all tour leg distances are attainable in 1 day.
• 70% of all tour leg distances are attainable in 2 days.
• 85% of all tour leg distances are attainable in 3 days.
• 95% of all tour leg distances are attainable in 4 days.
• 99.9% of all tour leg distances are attainable in 7 days.
• Access to safe drinking water, while enroute, is a major survival issue.
• It is very difficult to carry more than 3 days of water supplies on a bicycle. Such a journey can be achieved but it usually changes the travel mode from tourist mode to travel survival mode (virtually no personal bathing, no salty foods, protein foods rule, maybe no cooking, ultra minimal cleanup, no frivolous things to carry, no wasted travel time or effort, distance matters; travel time of day, temperature, and weather are movement control factors; give careful consideration toward helping others, and be very wary of strangers).
• Carrying bulk water supplies (4+ Days) usually requires an extra/third wheel device or a trailer as well as bulk water containers.
• Carrying 7 days of food is cumbersome, achievable, and not that unusual; the durability and sustainability of selected food stuffs must be considered (often with a high calorie to weight ratio).

Here are some Common Travel Modes
(These are broad generalizations just to help new folks get oriented):

1. A Self Guided, Self Contained (sometimes called Fully Loaded or a Bike About), couple or small group (2-6 riders) traveling fully loaded, often internationally, with no schedule and initially no return tickets. Time is often measured in weeks or months. Travelers are usually heavier for a multitude of contingencies. These folks usually carry a wide range of clothing (desert, monsoon, glacial pass, ...), but maybe carry 4 days of shirts and undies but only 2 pants. Food quantity is just enough for known resupply points, and bulked up for the unknown travel legs.
2. A Minimalist, often Solo (1-2 riders), usually traveling more daily distance than other bike travelers. This can be long term (80-90 miles/day) or short term (100-125 miles/day), but traveling light is a key. Minimalist often stealth camp and may stretch personal bathing and clothes washing cycles in exchange for making distance.


3. A Guided, Self Contained tour, usually a larger group (7-16 riders), such that a lot of contingency stress is resolved/reduced by the guide (or the guide's company, like where will I camp tonight or find food). Not to say that things can't go wrong, because they do. Time is usually measured in weeks and the cyclists are usually traveling relatively lighter for food, clothing, and contingencies.


4. A 3-7 day fully Self Contained, Self Guided, (usually 2 riders, up to 6) typically an in-and-out kind of jaunt and can be heavy or light, starting very heavy and getting lighter daily. No further meal planning/risks once started.

Bicycle Tour Planning Traps and Pitfalls:

• One pass a day, valley floor to valley floor, in 8,000+ Foot Mountains, can represent a full day's workout, energy wise. Two passes in a day, fully loaded, can leave cyclists bonked and cause physical energy depletion problems.
• Take your Breaks! It is wise to build and conform to a routine that generally facilitates:
• Rest for five minutes, about once an hour.*
  This is usually a water sipping break, sometimes associated with a potty break.
• Break for 15 minutes, about every 2.5 hours (twice a day). This may coincide with time to be a tourist at a site, or it may make for a nutritious break at a road-side overlook or rest area. Usually this is the time for a mid-morning snack and a mid-afternoon snack.
• Take at least 15 minutes for lunch. Some people take little 15 minute cat-naps at lunch time (especially in groups, where the Break's duration may be 45-60 minutes). In groups, one may have a lunch preparation duty to perform.
• After cyclists are in routine, these breaks seem to occur naturally.

* This can be problematic if wearing a hydration pack, whereas stopping to sip from a water bottle automatically creates a little rest break for the body, hydration packs allow a rider to keep riding without stopping - this can be good for fluid intake but sometimes bad for muscle recharging/longevity. Imagine hiking without stopping for body break/rest, it's not good for the body in the long run. Take your body rest breaks!
• Don't forget to Eat! Stick to the previously mentioned rest/snack schedule. Experience: We once had a heavy dinner the night before a major tour. No one felt like eating breakfast at the tour's start. We had mechanical trouble and resolved it when we would have normally have had a morning break/snack. We had the break but not the snack. This was an uphill climb, all day long. As the noon break arrived, we realized that we were energy depleted. Up till this point, we were running on the excitement of a new tour. We ate but we were mentally and physically behind the energy curve for the rest of the day and our metabolisms were out of sync for two days. We survived, but the tour was not as much fun as it should have been.
• The best daily biking routine in the mountains, for us, is to: start the morning with a climb (because it's cold out and climbing warms one up and we have fresh legs); be over the pass in the morning (because rain and lightning appear in the afternoon or evenings on most passes); spend the warm part of the day on the lower altitude flats (where and when one is expending the least body energy); and by noon time, start climbing up the next mountain (a sufficient distance to get into trees, cool air, and available water and still leave about 3-5 miles to the next summit).
• Travel Direction Planning/Considerations:
• Sun and Mountains: One generally wants to be moving from North to South (in the northern hemisphere) so that the sun is not to one's back for long hot climbing work - There are always exceptions to consider. One exception is cycling continents or major portions of a continent, like the entire Great Divide Bike Trail (in North America) over a few months time frame. In the case of the Great Divide, We've seen snow in June in Wyoming and Colorado, and passes in Montana may still be closed until July (because a snow plow can't get through). Look at our June 25, 2005, Meaden Pass Adventure (alternate Great Divide Route). Many people bike the Great divide from south to north, starting in late May or early June (Summer Break/Summer Vacation), so that the passes can melt free of snow or the mud can dry out in the high country of the Northern USA or Southern Canadian Mountains by the time that the cyclist gets there.
• Wind and Season: Most routes or locations have favorable winds, trade winds if you please; take the time to learn of typical winds for typical time frames. Kansas is famous for mid-summer winds that go from east to west for the Trans-American Bike Route where most of the remaining route's winds are west to east. Most large loops, over four days travel have favorable directions for wind or terrain. Caribbean and Mediterranean Islands typically have a best direction for cycling (assume such for other Islands).
• Sunrise and Sunset: Usually, this isn't an issue to cycling navigation so much as "Be Seen" Issue for Vehicular Traffic.


• If bogged down in the planning detail, just go. Don't get bogged down in planning entropy. This knowledge is learned over time. Besides, the really good stories come from one's mistakes. Go out there, HAVE FUN, and learn!


• Assumption: Road Bikes will typically have smoother and slightly narrow tires and the Mountain Bike will be on knobby or grip like heavier and wider tires. Smooth tires on hard roads get about 3 MPH more speed than knobbies and smooth tires on mountain gravel trail slopes or wet dirt slopes have to be pushed more frequently; also street tires suffer more flats in off road conditions.
• Trailers and Rolling Resistance: A cyclist can feel a distinct difference in rolling resistance (tire drag) when a trailer or wheel is added. The additional wheel's road friction is noticeable. That first additional wheel seems to add or take 30 Percent more energy or effort (everything else being the same). There is no need for trailer wheels to have knobs or significant treading; a tough slick tire offers the least amount of resistance.
• Don't confuse Miles with Kilometers: See Measurements and Conversions.
• 1 Mile = 1.6 Kilometers
• 1 Kilometer = 0.62 Miles
• 25 Miles = 42.3 Kilometers
• 25 Kilometers = 15.5 Miles

• Hot Climate Issues:
    Night Routine Issues:
  • Cultural habits formed way before electric air-conditioning. In hot climates, it does not get cool enough to sleep until about mid-night, so people stay up later, eat later, and work at home later than in Temperate Climates.
  • Hot Climates stay cool enough to sleep well until 8 AM, so culturally, there becomes an ethic to sleep about 8 hours which ranges from 12 PM to 8 AM. The work day may start from 9 to 10 AM. This causes planning adjustments to cyclists who may want to start at first light and take advantage of cool air environmental conditions.
    Day Routine Issues:
  • There is a reason for Siesta's. It can be dangerous to be outdoors during the high sun.
  • This can be a good time to be out of the sun, but note that some smaller businesses are virtually closed during siesta time in most villages (including food markets).
    Hot Climate Cycling Solutions:
  • Try to makes plans such that the cyclist is indoors or attending a site seeing tour during the heat of the day. This is the time to visit a Museum, Castle, Fort, or attend a local tour on an air conditioned bus.
  • Try to start cycling earlier in the day (like 6 or 7 AM) in order to avoid cycling in the hot sun after noon; sometimes this means making arrangements with the lodging facility to issue a bagged breakfast meal (sandwiches and fruit) because this may mean that the cyclist will miss the scheduled 8 or 9 AM breakfast serving.
  • Perform any Market shopping for Lunch or other future meals, early in the day. Markets often close anywhere from noon till Three PM.
  • Managers won't show until 9 or 10 AM. So, if they have locked your bikes away or locked the cash register, you will not be able to depart until the Manager shows up to work. Pre-Pay for the lodging and do let the manager know your departure intentions and needs.
  • It is wise to pre-discuss your early departure plans with the owner or manager. This is the time to make arrangements for some food supplements like lunch and interim snacks.
• Changing Countries: Generally bicycles are not impeded, but to be safe and because of political weirdness, plan on nearby stays and short travel distances for days that include a Foreign Country Immigration / Customs check. This process does seem to go faster for established travel groups. See Next Note.
• Food, Agriculture Zones, and Country Boundaries: It is quite typical that most foods, especially meat, dairy products, fruit and vegetables, can NOT go across borders or agriculture zones. Usually canned and bottled foods may go across a national border. While national borders are known and understood, sometimes agriculture zones can sneak up on a biker without prior knowledge. We got caught in one of these zones, un beknownst to us, between South Australia and Victoria and we had to throw away food that we just bought that morning. There is another famous Agriculture Zone in Arizona that prevents many types of fresh food goods from going into California.
• Bicycle Touring is about life and its enrichment for everyone. Remember to be a Tour-ist, visit local culture! Drop in on festivals. Share life with the local peoples, stop and talk especially when someone stopping their work to make a friendly greeting or gesture. Visit historical monuments. Take time to enjoy life! Touring is NOT about distance or days. Participate in Life!


Tour Planning Checklist

Bicycle Touring Configurations:

• Bicycle Touring Configurations have evolved to meet different cyclist needs. At present, there seem to be four typical touring equipment setups and few hybrid mixes. This is a generalization and there are no stead fast rules.

1. Road Bike with Panniers: This setup is the oldest and was influenced by the French, who more or less created first bike mounted bags called Panniers. Pannier or Panier derives from Middle French and Latin meaning Bread Basket (literally: pertaining to bread). Now, Pannier equates to Saddle Bag (as in western horseback riding).
2. Mountain Bike with Trailer: While the use of trailers is not new, some riders of Mountain Bikes do not like the bike handling with panniers on some narrow trails and they evolved a single wheeled trailer to easily follow in the same single track trail while leaving the bike light and free of accoutrements.

3. Bike with Ultralight Backpack: The bike type doesn't matter and the rider carries a maximum of 20 to 30 pounds of equipment, food, and water, distributed between a backpack and a bag on a rear rack, and maybe a small handlebar bag. Either a Road Bike or a Mountain Bike remains light, maneuverable, and free of major accoutrements. There may be a small bed roll or tent strapped to the handle bar. We have a separate Ultralight Checklist created with a two time Great Divide Race Winner.
4. Bike with Baggage Support: The cyclist handles the pedaling and touring while a support crew shuttles the luggage from place to place and there can be a wide range of support services (for pay). This is a common bicycling configuration for people who travel by air/train/bus/ship to other/remote/foreign destinations. A cyclist may or may not bring their own bike and may carry one or two panniers to carry personal belongings, weather gear, or purchases. We happen to have a separate Suitcase Travel/Packing Checklist designed for international travel.
Additionally, there are mixes of the previous listed configurations, such as:

5. Bike with Panniers and Trailer: Usually this is for a long haul (weeks or months) for which the riders are not in a hurry, are self sufficient and living in travel style (at the expense of slightly more weight than average).
6. Bike with Trailer and Backpack: Usually, a Mountain Biker stretching out the travel load, keeping the bike free of accoutrements, and still traveling relatively lighter than average load(s).
There are debates about Pannier versus Trailer and there are Benefits and Detriments for either and the solution does not have to be mutually exclusive. See Adventure Cycling's Article, called "The Big Debate" by John Schubert on the subject of Pannier versus Trailer. Also see A Noteworthy Incident.

Top    Back To: Bicycle Touring Checklist, Device Setup, How to Select a Touring Bicycle.


• Additional Gear Carrying Methods/Equipment for Touring (In addition to Saddle Bags and Trailers):
• Frame Bags fit inside the area between the Cross Tube, Down Tube, and the Seat Tube (or the bicycle equivalent). These bags are typically used to carry narrow objects and/or may have small pockets. It is typically about three inches wide and may hold additional water bottles, first-aid kit, and objects that are often carried in a handlebar bag. Frame Bags are usually homemade but sometimes may be found online (eBay, Amazon, search, ...). They do increase the side wind profile a little more than any other type of bag. Some are top tube oriented, some are seat tube and top tube oriented, some are top and down tube oriented, and some are full space oriented. These started as home made but can now be found online [check Adventure cycling's Store].


• Top of Rack Bags can be found in most bicycle stores as well as online - See far right image's front rack, top.
• Handlebar Strap and/or Bag commonly seen on Great Divide Races. It can be a separate elongated bag (about 18"x6" cylinder shape) with independent straps or it can be a combined bag and strap system. Use of such a bag may require adjusting brake and/or shifter layout or grab angle.
• Traditional Handlebar Bag commonly seen on long distance tours or road tours. It ranges from about 8"x3" (cylinder shape) to about 14"x10"x10" (lunch box shape). It may mount directly to the handlebar or have an extension mount. There are more details listed under the Bike Tour Checklist's Equipment's Handlebar Bag topic as well as under the Bicycle Touring Tips' Handlebar Bag topic. Bigger sized bags typically have a plastic covered map holder.
• Back Pack: It needs to be fitted so that it does not swing with the cyclists pedaling motions. Packs may contain hydration systems (like CamelBack). They typically carry up to 30 pounds of gear or gear plus water, usually the gear is the soft bulky stuff (like clothing).
• Wheel Extension allows a cyclist to move the rear wheel further to the rear (about 6-12 Inches or 15-30 Centimeters). This is used for a variety of reasons like for bigger/wider/taller wheels, more stability, longer wheelbase (for more load on the rear end), bigger bags, heavier loads, and supper sized city/urban carry/saddle bags (for shopping goods and such). Found online and in specialty bike catalogs.


* All pictures copied from their respective websites.

• Third Wheel Extension usually attaches to the seat mast or post but sometimes to a heavy duty rear rack attachment. The Third Wheel is similar to the device used to add a kid to a saddle and pull him/her behind Mommy or Daddy only there is no saddle. This device typically is used to carry additional saddle bags and/or bulk water supplies. The device has a narrower profile than a trailer and allows a cyclist to have supplies slightly higher off the ground which is a great benefit in Semi-Arid to Desert Climates (to include Chaparral, Savanna, Outback, and Bush environments). Found online and in specialty bike catalogs.
Back to: Bicycle Touring Checklist, Device Setup, How to Select a Touring Bicycle.
• Bike Purchase Configuration Considerations
• There is some merit in giving thought to bicycle Break Down and bicycle Shipping/Transport Issues. See Bicycle shipping and Transport Issues. Light weight and durability are always good features that support bicycle riding configuration and bicycle shipping/transporting. Of the two features, durability is the best long range and long term feature.
• Touring Configuration Considerations:

• When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one has to address security and theft temptation at a higher degree than would be normal.
• When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one will probably have to address replacement parts non availability issues.
• When touring parties have the same (interchangeable) equipment like tires, rims, tubes, spokes, derailers/dérailleurs, chains, brakes, pads, and cables then less kinds of spare equipment need to be carried.
• When touring, if bike components are common and NOT at the bleeding edge of technology, then replacement parts (or solutions) are more likely to be found worldwide.
• Bicycle Configuration for Rider and Distance Endurance:
  - This Section formerly listed desired ergonomic rider setup methods for a Tour Bike.
  - All suggestions have been merged into Rider Comfort and Endurance.
  - Also see the Next Section.

Body Conditioning - The Physical Bicycle Tour Preparation

• We're not saying what a traveler has to do to get one's body into bike endurance shape, but we find that a person needs to be capable of riding Eight Hours total in one day, no matter the road or weather conditions (and not necessarily continuous hours but certainly total hours).
• Body Riding Position: Answer - Whatever is comfortable for the long haul.
  
  Discussion: Bicycle design has followed the path of Bicycle Racing. Subsequently, most bike designs are engineered for the rider to present a narrow wind resistance profile (by being sharply bent over while leaning forward) in order to maximize the leg's power stroke to the point that in order to achieve maximum power and leverage, a rider may not actually be seated while using the front handlebar as an immobile force to push against. Frankly, this kind of typical (back, shoulder, neck and arm paining) bike setup potentially discourages half of the probable tour bike riders from ever riding a bike for cross country adventure.
  This, just described, bike design is great for racing but not for touring. For touring, one needs to be able to pedal for days at a time and still be physically and mentally capable of enjoying life. Touring is not about racing, it's about enjoying life. Most people can enjoy touring with a different bike set up, designed around comfort for the long haul. Sometimes, a tour rider has to be quite forceful about getting a bike setup the way the rider desires (see the next paragraph).
• Body/Bike Ergonomics: We have found ourselves riding more and more erect over time with increasingly wider saddles and we are now using split saddles that are friendlier to anatomical parts. We have shortened or even reversed the handlebar stem in order to move the handlebar grips rearward and we have raised the steering axle tube in order to position the handlebar upward to a coordinate where the hand places itself naturally when one is sitting upright in a saddle.
  If the reader has missed the news articles, a mitigating issue is that quite a few professional racers and other speed riders, male and female, who have ridden in the bent over power biking position for decades on narrow saddles, are developing nerve damage maladies in the lower back/spine, crotch, and/or upper leg/thigh areas (often effecting sex drive, and/or the biological capability to become a parent, let alone, effecting normal quality of life with soreness, numbness, or pain).
• We have needed more and more body (and butt) break-in time for each season. The significance of this statement is important. We are snowed in during the Winter and we don't get to ride bikes. During the Winter, we can hike or snow shoe for hours at a time, but in the early Spring we can't physically sit on a bike seat for more than a couple of hours - it takes a while to get our derrieres into endurance riding shape. (Like others, we don't have the temperament for stationary biking).

"The first successful aircraft design came from a pair of Bicycle Mechanics"- Dennis Struck

Issues to Consider for Selecting a Tour Bicycle
(Criteria for Selecting a Tour Bike or Touring Bicycle; How to Choose a Touring Bicycle)

Touring Bicycle Selection Issues/Considerations (Tour Types, Duration, Surface, Load, Pace, Support, Organization)

Touring Bicycle Frame Issues (Main Frame, Forks, Stays, Shape, Racks, Suspension, Material)
Touring Bicycle Drive Train Issues (Chain, Sprockets, Rings, Cranks, Pedals, Shifters, and Derailers)
Touring Bicycle Rider Comfort/Endurance Issues (Bike Design, Posture, Ergonomics, Condition, Saddle, Challenges)
Touring Bicycle Setup (Necessary Bike Touring Accessories and their Setup)
Touring Bicycle Wheel Issues (Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, Reflector and Fender):

Touring Bicycle Caveats (Tour Bike Selection, Facilitation, or Shipping)




The decision maker is facing an age old design dilemma right from the start of the consideration process:



1. PERFORMANCE or ENDURANCE, pick one.
2. Any Kind of Component Design result that is between Performance and Endurance,
   is a Design COMPROMISE.

No two tours are the same and no two people are the same, thus each tour faces different requirements and each person has different expectations (needs, requirements). All tours are affected by outside influences (weather, geography, lodging, politics, ...), some of which can be controlled and some not.


Just because the Marketing Department calls a bicycle a 'Tour Bike',
it doesn't magically make the bike a useful long-distance touring machine.

People who tour on bicycles may need Cycle-logical Evaluation! - Shelly Mossey

Tour Bicycle/Bike Selection Issues/Considerations:

Attributes of Bicycle Tours, for your Consideration (mixes occur):



1. The Type of Bicycle Tour affects the characteristics
   for the Touring Bicycle Selection/Specification.



2. The following represent a 'Broad View' of Bicycle Touring
   (Bike Touring, Bicycle Tour).



3. This list of Attributes of Bicycle Touring
   forms the basis of Tour Bike Requirements.



4. Typically, the first two items rule the selection decision(s).





1. Self Contained, Self Guided, Self Supported, Fully Loaded (Weeks)
2. Expedition (Months)
3. Day Tours
4. Ultra-Light (Days), Heavy (Days/Weeks)
5. Loop (Days)
6. Large Groups (15+), Small Groups (14-), Couples, Solo
7. Hired Company, Hired Individual, Self Organized, Group Organized (determines gear to carry)
8. Guided, Un-guided / Self Guided, Consensus Leadership (determines food and lodging arrangements)
9. Supported, Un-Supported, Some Distributed Communal Wares (effects what one carries and/or how much one carries)
10. Pavement Only/Mostly, Off-Road Mostly/Only, Back Roads, Mix of Road/Track Surfaces (definitely a Tire selection issue which reflects on the bike's tire mount/size/style capability/functionality)
11. Camping, Hotel, B&B, Mix (load, weight, and configuration determining)
12. Planned in Detail, No Plans (actually quite rare), Loose Time Table, Loose Destination (rare)
13. Low Cost, First Class (effects what and how much is carried by individuals for the group)
14. Food Service: Self Cook and Cary; Catered; Some Meals Provided, some not; Tour Group and/or Guide Managed (Cook Ware, Food Quantity, Stove[s] Carried, ...)
15. Special Purpose Tour(s) (XC Race, Geographic Issues, Hydration, ...)
16. Pace and/or Distance; Flat, Hills, Mountains; Cyclist Capability (affects planning, timing, scheduling).
17. Physical Challenge Issues (requires pre-tour solutions)


Note: 'On the Road' Touring Tips, Tricks and Learning Lessons are located at Touring Tips.



"A good Touring Bicycle will always have fenders and racks designed into its development"- Dennis Struck


Touring Bicycle Frame Issues
(Main Frame, Forks, Stays, Shape, Racks, Suspension, Materials):

Top   How to Choose a Touring Bike - TOC

- There are a multitude of Facts and Considerations for a Frame Selection.
• Frame Requirements: A Road Bike frame is just not tough or rugged enough to sustain a long bike tour, especially if any off-road riding is required (which is a characteristic of most bike tours). Mountain bike frames are usually OK (tough enough, but maybe not long enough). Road Bike and Mountain Bike frames tend to be too short in length for long term bike tour durability. Road Bikes tend to be built light weight for speed and performance (at the expense of durability/survivability). Road Bikes are not built to carry tour loads. Generally, Mountain Bikes are tough enough for tour loads but are generally not built for long duration riding comfort.
• Tour Bikes need built in mounts (like braze-on mounts) for fenders, racks, and/or water bottle cages (these necessary items should not be after thoughts for a tour bike frame). Tour bikes must be pannier friendly. The frame needs to be tough enough to handle rear pulling and/or side pulling stresses and/or load weight of a loaded bike rack, pannier, trailer or an added wheel (3rd Wheel).
• Usually Steel has the best endurance and is the easiest to fix/repair, worldwide. Aluminum is OK for light weight and toughness issues, but Aluminum costs more and Aluminum Mechanics or technicians are not available in most of the world; Steel Welders are the least difficult to find. The same problem exists with Titanium frame issues and repairs, it is difficult to find a repair tech. Forget about Carbon Fiber, it is just not a durable material for bike touring. Survival is the key to long distance bike touring and durability matters.
• Tour Bikes need to be Load bearing (30-100 pounds of gear [plus the rider], 70-80 pounds is very typical [gear + camp equipment + food + water]). On Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes the rider tends to sit far to the rear because of a short wheel base and short drive train for performance purposes but when pannier weight and/or rack loaded weight are added, it tends to make the bike very heavy in the back and very light in the front [a handling problem]. However, an elongated bake frame, especially from adding room behind the rider by using elongated chain and seat stays, allows a rider better front-rear balanced riding control. This concept, of course, fits with other elongated/longer frame requirements/proposals for better touring bike designs.
• Tour Bikes need to have Ground clearance (one rides over big rocks, big holes, obstacles, and curbs). A tour bike should be able to ride up/over/down a curb without pedaling a crank ring or pedal into the obstacle and hopefully not dragging its chain across the obstacle. This is not an issue for Mountain Bikes but it is contrary to most Road Bike designs (which aim for low center of gravity riding for maneuver performance).
• Frame Sizing rules change from Road Bikes to Tour Bikes configurations. Tour bikes need a higher ground clearance (than a road bike's bottom tube) but not a proportionately higher top tube. The resulting tour bike profile may have a more elongated look. In fact, one may need to lower the top tube so as to step across the top tube for bike mounting, as very often an item like a tent or sleeping bag may be (can be) strapped across the top of a rear rack thus preventing the ol' Swing the Leg Over the Saddle mounting method that is common to most road bike riders and mountain bikers (male and female).
• Tour Bikes need a longer wheelbase (takes bumps easier and gives the rider and frame better endurance, smoother ride, better handling stability for loads, improved washboard situation endurance, and most importantly a longer chain run favors a larger quantity of usable front and rear gear combinations).
• Fork/Front-End: A tour bike should be able to ride directly into a curb (to go over at a slow speed) and not bend a fork nor snake bite a tube (therefore also supporting a tougher tube, rim, and tire assembly). This tour bike property supports pot hole survival/endurance much more so than on a road bike.
• Experienced Bike Tourers and Bike Designers argue about whether to tour with front shocks (or shock mount handlebar systems). It appears to be a personal preference and it correlates nicely to the expectation of riding mostly on road or off road. Shock mounts do add to weight and they yield a slightly longer shipment assembly time. There are different shock designs (air, hydraulic, spring, and combination systems) that yield different durability probabilities - One usually selects durability over performance features. Bike shops and designers are usually up to date on the ride, assembly, maintenance, and durability/performance issues. The decision must be made before a bike design/purchase, because changing a fork system after the fact affects all related ride features.
• Racks and Suspension: It is easier to find rack mounts (for panniers) for rigid suspension bicycles. It is slightly easier to ship and assemble bikes with rigid suspensions. It is difficult to find quality touring racks for shock/flexible suspension bicycles (that can hold 50 pounds of weight over multiple long distance tours). Flexible suspension racks do exist but it is terribly difficult to find a rack for a specific bike/situation/set-up. These are considerations to address before one buys/orders/makes a bike frame. Most people forego a flexible suspension for touring but some people have physical needs for a front suspension or a full suspension bike.
• Suspension Seats and Handlebars: Some people (need to) setup their bikes, often after purchasing the bike, with shock/suspension seat posts and/or handlebar stem shock/suspension mounts - it can be an after purchase solution for a physical need to have a suspension ride. When road riding, for the most part, control is not an issue, but control can be an issue when one needs to be correcting their course while the suspension seat or handlebar is flexing at the same time that one is steering or pedaling - it takes a short while to become accustomed to these features (flexible steering or pedaling) and some people cannot adapt to either of these features.
• Drive Train: Tour Bikes need a longer chain, chain-stays, and drive train (this is a huge big deal, it gives the rider more gearing options, less chain rub [or none] when out of chain line alignment or 'cross chaining'). This desired feature melds nicely with the concept of an elongated Bike Tour frame.
• Tires: Tour Bikes need to be built for wider tires (usually about 1.5 inches has the best endurance, but the frame should be able to facilitate 2.25 inch mountain knob tires).
• Control: Please note that some people do not like the handling of a bike with fully loaded panniers, especially on the front wheel. Bike handling is especially a big deal when riding on mountain sides (narrow trails/paths) and this is why some mountain bike riders may pull a single-wheel trailer. So far there are no bikes designed specifically for pulling a trailer (with factory mounts or a combination system for a trailer and pannier mounting).
• Warnings (Rider Weight, Frame Shape, Single Wheel Trailer): Please note that some small frame bikes and some less common shaped bikes (other than diamond/trapezoid shape, to include most girl frames and mono-tubes) may have problems pulling a single-wheel trailer, this safety issue may be associated with light weight people as well (seemingly under 125 pounds). There are some Bike and Single-Wheel-Trailer combinations (perhaps Bike and Trailer and People combinations) that have resulted in bicycle steering/handling problems (frame shake or resonance steering control dangers that have resulted in bike crashes). If a touring cyclist is in this category, then be very cautious and/or maybe stay only with pannier based rigs or two-wheel trailer rigs. Read about Shake Recovery.
• Weight: More weight causes faster chain and bike wear. More weight requires more cyclist energy.
• Rider Strength: Some people just cannot pedal big loads and they physically must travel very light (often at the cost of some material convenience) - These cyclists are often less than 110 pounds in their own body weight and they can tour very well with the right setup. On occasion the right setup may involve your favorite bike shop or a specialist bike store that works with physically challenged people - There are plenty online. In the Colorado Springs area one should contact Angle Tech Cycles.
• Kick Stand: Considered dead weight in Road Bike circles and it is considered as a obstacle catching contrivance in Mountain Bike Circles. Side mounted kickstands are a waste of time and money (even in the Tour Bike world). However, a bipod stand on a Touring Bike has a few conveniences: it can remain standing under breezes, it keeps a bike and it's components and personal gear out of the dirt, it minimizes (to a greater extent) exposure to creepy crawlers and things that slither, but most importantly a bipod allows one to do maintenance on the drive train and work on related rear wheel system issues (because one can raise the rear wheel off the ground).
• Other Frame or Setup Solutions: Recumbent bike frames (with the right setup) favor many physical human challenges. Recumbent bikes are not allowed in most long distance bike races because they out-perform most diamond frame bike designs (everything else being equal) - Go figure.
• Recumbents (and Tandems) don't ship/pack as easily as diamond frame bikes. Another bike shipping issue is that Touring bikes tend to be bigger than road bikes and may cost more to ship. All of the touring gear together will always add to the total bike shipping weight and it is not unusual to be over the 50 pound weight penalty for some airline shipping.
• Transport/Shipping: If one is going to conduct international flights or shipping for bike touring, then be sure that the bike can be easily packed. Consider frame break down (like S&S couplers) or fold-up bikes (like BikeFridays). Give consideration to re-usable packing boxes or cases and give consideration to cases that can be used as trailers. There can be many logistical issues to consider (see next bullet). Most expedition bikers ship and use their own solid frame bikes; however one may buy or rent bikes at or near the Tour's start location. Also, consider reading about Bike Shipping.
• A bike that breaks down for shipping should have a come-apart drive chain (like SRAM Quick-Links) and removable rear derailer and quick connect shift and/or brake cables. The quick connect shift cable allows a person to disconnect a derailer and then reconnect the derailer without having to re-tune the derailer (invented by and sold by daVinci Designs - found online). The quick connect brake cable facilitates easier, no worry, removal of the handlebar without having to manage several feet of attached brake cable and it prevents having to re-attach the cable to the pinch bolt, over and over (which destroys the cable end). Hint, many long range cyclists meld solder into the brake and shifter cables at their ends and in the area of the pinch bolt contact [solder binds the cable together and prevents or slows down cable fraying].
• The net effect of designing a bike for shipping tends to shorten the frame length, shrink the frame size to rider ratio, rob space from the bike for mounting accessories, rob rider ergonomic positioning, and lighten the bike such that material strength is reduced.
• Generally, even with the recent added Air Carrier baggage cost increases, it is usually less expensive to pay the added Air Carrier Costs than to send a bike via Air Freight (with UPS or FedX for example). The advantage of sending a bike Air Freight is that one does have to limit their Air Plane luggage (by the bike or accessory weight difference[s]), one does not have the hassle of extra check-in and check-out time nor extra baggage inspection time (very often bicycles are picked up and dropped off at the air carrier's Freight Office which is a different location than used for regular suit-case check-in/check-out), and one does not have to deal with the burden of lugging extra luggage at the air port nor enroute (like in a taxi or bus).



Touring Bicycle Drive Train Issues
(Chain, Sprockets, Rings, Cranks, Pedals, Shifters, and Derailers):

Top   How to Choose a Tour Bike - TOC



• The bicycle needs a power drive train setup that specifically facilitates a person to pedal uphill all day long, carrying/towing a load, while the rider is in a seated position. By hill, we mean a mountain, by pedal, we mean climbing 7,000 Feet (~ 2,000 Meters) in a day, sometimes twice a day.
• One usually needs a minimum of three front rings and a supporting front derailer for climbing but some bikes may use a special rear hub gear box device for some Tour Bike situations.
• One needs to be able to ride up a steep slope sometimes. It is OK to push a bike (this happens on many interesting global type tours), but one should not have to push a bike for a long time nor very far. One needs good gearing for hill climbing.
• Longer chain runs are a whole lot more forgiving about chain line issues (thus making the system more durable).
• One should consider another drive train or another bike if one cannot pedal a Touring Bike in full cross chain situation (without chain side grinding noises). For example, on a 3x9 drive train (3 front rings and 9 rear sprockets), one should be able to bike in a 1-9 combination or a 3-1 combination (which on a short drive train will make grinding cross-chain noises) - granted that one may need to trim the front-derailer (see next bullet).
• Front Derailer Trim means being capable of moving a shifter to an interim setting between full shifts. For example, if there is an interim index click/position between the #1 ring (low gear/granny front ring) and the #2 ring which allows a 1-9 (ring-sprocket) combination that does not make chain rub noises on the front derailer's cage/basket (and there is no sprocket-ring side chain rub/grinding noise) then that gives a much more flexibility and capability for long riding duration than if not. This is very much a performance bike versus touring bike issue - A road bike is significantly shorter in length (ergo a shorter drive train length) only to cut down on bike weight (rider comfort and bike endurance are not concerns of performance/race riding/biking). See Comfort/Endurance Issues in the next section.
• A good touring front-derailer will facilitate interim trim positions. 1) This allows for what would be called a cross chain operation on shorter drive trains (by being able to move the rail cage off the chain). 2) As wear and tear occur over time, triming a derailer often allows a cyclist to postpone a mandatory trail side derailer adjustment - allowing a rider to ride through a trying circumstance. [This statement is not advocating delayed maintenance, just appreciating that on special occasions a good endurance bike may support a slight delay before maintenance on the drive train for a kind of tough touring bike that is sometimes called a 'War Horse' - it endures well under stress].
• Brake and Shifter Controls: Integrated brake/shift systems were created for performance purposes (lighter weight and race speed performance, and not for endurance nor for maintenance). Integrated brake/shift systems are much more difficult to repair or replace than separate brake and shifter setups. One problem with integrated brake/shifter systems is that they are often unprotected (mistake #1) - Bar-Ends can be used for protection. And Two, being combined makes trail/road side maintenance much more difficult than that of separate systems (mistake #2) - This can make bike tour survival more difficult. Integrated brake/shifter systems are seldom repairable (they are usually swapped out for a new assembly), granted that one does not normally carry brake levers or shifter assemblies as a spare part on a tour.

Touring Bicycle Rider Comfort/Endurance Issues:
(Bike Design, Posture, Ergonomics, Condition, Saddle, Challenges)

Top   How to Choose a Touring Bicycle - TOC

Also see this parallel issue discussed under the Topic of Body Conditioning and Rider Ergonomics.

• Frame Designs that work for Road Bicycle Speed and Performance often will not work for Touring Bicycles or for a rider's personal long term Endurance. A longer bike yields a smoother (more enduring) ride to the cyclist. A longer drive train enables a wider use of all available gear (ring/sprocket) combinations. See previous section.
• Tires: Wider Tires (1.5 to 1.75 inch widths are more supportive of long distance rider endurance than race skinny tires - Also, further discussed under Wheel Issues). Skinny tires wear out too fast, have more flats, and do not perform off-road for very long.
• Posture: Riding bent over for hundreds of miles gets tiresome in a hurry, one needs a multiple rider position capability and one way to achieve this by having bigger/longer handlebars that allow multiple holding positions for the hand (thus giving other hand, arm, shoulder, back, and neck muscle groups a way to relax while still pedaling). The riding posture that allows a rider to last the longest is to ride sitting upright (basic human ergonomics).
• Rider Position Over Time: Quite typically, the older any rider has become, the more upright a rider needs to sit. One specifically needs to address the riding base posture and the capability to take on multiple positions in order to systematically rest or relax certain muscles or muscle groups while still pedaling.
• Saddle: The more that one needs to sit up-right (often associated with age and/or riding over time) the more that one needs a wider seat (often called a saddle).
• There are some seat designs that facilitate reduced crotch or butt nerve irritation over time. Riding with the back prone for long periods of time (years) has been known to cause male and female reproductive issues and it has caused, in some circumstances, irrecoverable nerve damage and or pain.
• Sometimes a modified chair is needed for long term rider endurance/survival (recumbent style).
• Prepare yourself for Bicycle Tour riding: No matter the type of saddle, all riders need bicycle sitting experience over time to be able last all day in the saddle. This is also called Butt Break-In Time, no-one can go several months without riding much and then take off on a bike tour without feeling the pain of more time in the saddle than the body can handle.
• Handlebars need to facilitate multiple hand and arm positions. On mountain bikes with more or less straight bars, long bar ends serve to facilitate different body positions. Drop Bars probably offer the most rider positions, as is. Note that there are aftermarket drop bar arm rests and there is a manufacturer that makes a kind of upright handlebar extension that works on most other kinds of handlebar designs/shapes.
• A bicyclist will feel better at the end of the day if they can ride in a variety of positions. Changing the rider's position allows the resting of some muscles while working other muscles - this is a charactistic of all long distance riders. A handlebar that facilitates a variety of riding positions will enhance rider endurance, especially in the long haul. Traditional drop bars meet this requirement, in fact we have seen drop bars mounted on cross country mountain bikes and we have seen forearm rests mounted on tour bikes. The addition of bar-ends can help tremendously for any handlebar. There are P shaped handlebars, H shaped handlebars, C shaped handlebars, drop bars (traditional road style), inverted drop bars (for bend-over relief, much like upright bar ends), half-drop bars, L shaped add-on bars, and other aftermarket handlebars designed for long distance touring (or rider special needs).
• Touring handlebars should be tougher and longer in tube length (side to side handlebar width). Performance Handlebars are usually small in size, length, and lightweight (designed for a narrow profile bent over race position). Touring Bike Handlebars need to be able to mount additional hardware/accessories on the handle bar (or sometimes on the bike Stem/Headset). See next Tour Bike Setup section.
• Wider and beefier Handlebars (wider than stock bars on performance road bikes) allow better control of a pannier loaded front wheel.
• Handlebars should be strong enough to be able to take a few mishaps/drops/crashes.
• Stem-Riser/Steering-Tube: Sometimes the stem-riser needs to be taller (longer) to accommodate a cyclist's sitting more upright position. This will raise the center of gravity and it can make quite the moment/lever when a handlebar bag is added (therefore, it is easier for the bike to fall over when resting on something or if the bike is on a side mounted kick stand). Sometimes, raising the riser requires a shorter stem piece or even a reversal of the stem piece.
• Physical Challenges: Sometimes one needs to address a special bike configuration just for body mechanics; in fact maybe a special setup may be required and maybe another style of touring bike is needed, like a recumbent, quad, trike, or special tandem. There are plenty of Bike Shops online that cater to the Physically Challenged Cyclist. It happens that Colorado Springs has a special group of guys that work with physically challenged cyclists at Angle Tech Cycles.



Touring Bicycle Setup (Necessary Bike Touring Accessories and their Setup):

Top   How to Choose a Tour Bicycle - TOC

One should have designed space or room on the bike handlebar, stem/head (sometimes), and frame, in order to mount devices or equipment. This is yet another reason for a larger elongated frame for a Touring Bike and a good reason to have a side-to-side wider sized Handlebar. Some typical and common add-on tour aids are:


• Lights (front and rear - be aware that gear tied to a rear rack often blocks a rear light mounted on the seat, seat bag, seat stem, seat stay or seat post)
• Bar End, Extra Bar, Bar Rest
• Bell, Alarm, Polite Noise Maker
• Computer-Speedometer-Odometer
• Handlebar Bag, Map Case, Trip Notes, GPS Mount
• Water Bottle Cages and Bottles (more is better)
• Fenders (front and rear)
• Pannier Racks (front and rear)
• Mirror (can also be helmet or glass frame mounted) - everyone should ride with a mirror
• Reflectors (frame, wheel, clothing, baggage, pannier, trailer, ...)


Note: Also See Bicycle Tour Checklist, Bicycle Camping Checklist, Bicycle Load Carry Configuration.



Touring Bicycle Wheel Issues
(Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, Reflector and Fender):

Top   How to Choose a Tour Bike - TOC


• Wheel Systems should handle the additional weight of touring loads, still ride comfortably, and have a commonly available tire/size. This issue needs to address all of the wheel components (Tire, Rim, Spokes, Hub, Brake, as well as address the Brake system and Fender Dust, Dirt, Gravel, and Mud Protection).
• Rim/Tire Size: The best Sized Tire Short Answer is 26 inches. The Long Answer has to do with shipping. The best/desired tire size is directly affected by shipping. In the USA, and other international airlines copy this policy, any shipping case is LIMITED to 62 linear inches total measure or the person carrying/shipping the container must pay OVERSIZE Baggage FEES. Many bike carry cases are 26 X 26 X 10 inches, such that the linear count is 62 inches (26 + 26 + 10 = 62 linear inches). It is not worth buying/owning/having a case unless it meets the commercial carrier's maximum acceptable size which is usually 62 linear inches.
  Issue: The average wheel hub width is 5 inches (sometimes the rear hub is a little wider and the front hub is a little narrower). In a 10 inch wide shipping case, hubs will knock/rub into one another UNLESS the wheels are offset from one another.
  Experience: We place the wheel into a case with foam pads duct taped to each case wall and we offset the wheels by pushing one edge down such that the wheel sits in the case in a tilted geometric plane (compared to the wall of the case). We then put a little foam pad between the hubs and offset the next wheel placement (parallel to the other wheels plane). Depending on the actual tire diameter, we may or may not deflate the tire BUT we only deflate the tire to make the wheel (tire + rim) fit into the shipping case. No consideration is given to deflation for air pressure - we give consideration only to making sure that the wheel is snug in its case
  Don't get 700 mm tires - Doing the Math: If one were to use 700 mm tires (27.55 inches) then the remaining width of the case would be 7 inches (62 - 27.5 - 27.5 = 7 inches), thus only having enough room for 1 typical sized hub.
• Reflectors: Keep or add-on the bike Reflectors (including non-wheel reflectors). Being seen at night is a big deal. Most people remove reflectors for performance purposes (a lighter bike goes faster). Touring cyclists want to be seen at night, it is more important than shaving a second off of the travel time. Sooner or later: 1) Everyone will find themselves on the road at night (it often results from: poor directions, poor planning, or a mid day delay/incident). 2) A touring cyclist may set up an emergency camp at night on a lonely unused dirt road and wake up to an XC Jeep with Night Lights performing a night run (don't ask) - You want to be seen versus being run over in your sleep.
• Rim(s): Stock rims may eventually crack or wear thin from braking activity or load stress. Sometimes, this stress, including mountain trail riding, may result in broken spokes, spoke stretch, spoke nipple (nut) loosening, and wheel wobble issues. One activity that usually needs to be done is to buy/install beefier wheel rims. Heavy Duty Rims typically have a stronger material, thicker material, more spokes, stronger spoke fittings, and/or better quality spokes. The majority of New Bicycles are not sold with Heavy Duty touring wheels. Heavy Duty wheels (often an aftermarket purchase) endure better than most stock bicycle wheels. Most bicycle shop techs can be very helpful in helping a cyclist to secure a suitable touring wheel/rim setup. Often, only the rear wheel is at issue. Many touring cyclists only beef up the rear wheel. Again, a bicycle shop technician can help address this topic/issue.
• Heavy duty rims are especially important if touring with clamp on brake systems but note that disk brake systems are better for loaded touring bike longevity.
• The best type of touring rim is A Shaped (called Aero, for Aerodynamic), the very design allows more weight to be carried and it can take more abuse than flat C Shaped rims. Aero rims cannot work with clamp type brake systems but only with disk brake systems. It happens that Aero shaped rims are faster than flat C shaped rims, everything else being equal.
• Spokes: Flat (aerodynamic) spokes require more wheel time maintenance and are not touring durable, avoid. Tapered end spokes are OK but full round spokes seem to endure best. Use thicker than stock issue round spokes (2.0 mm or bigger = 14 gauge or smaller g value). Use a 3x or 4x lacing pattern (4 cross preferred, 3 cross quite OK), with a count of 48 spokes (48 is best in the 26 inch to 700 mm wheel size, 40-44 is OK, the spoke count is usually in multiples of 4).

• Tube (Presta versus Schrader): Schrader valves are slightly bigger, more durable, easier to operate, and more serviceable at any petro/gas station air pump (on earth). I have never seen a fuel station pump that would handle Presta valves, therefore a touring cyclist should always have a Presta/Schrader valve converter (costs about $3, found at most bike shops). Presta valves are smaller, lighter in weight, have a slightly smaller wind resistance profile, and are a little more problematic to operate (than Schrader Valves) - they require screwing the valve in or out for closing and opening (this is in addition to a valve cap). Always cover valves with a valve cap for touring (not done for racing, lighter weight).
• Every tour biker has a 'I hate Presta Valves story'. However, due to the narrow top (on the spoke side) of the Aero rim (a double walled, A shaped rim, the best for touring) most manufacturers will only make narrow hole openings for tubes, ergo while the Schrader Air Stem/Valve is the most common in the world (the same as car tire valves), most manufacturers will only provide a narrow hole opening (for rim stress safety purposes) and therefore only tubes with narrower Presta Air Stem/Valves will fit/work.
• There are people/cyclists that drill out the Aero rim holes for Schrader Valve sized tubes. For liability purposes, manufacturers and bike shops will not perform this task, but I have not actually heard of anyone who has caused rim damage or a rim failure. While I have not done this, I imaging that the drill-out must be done with drill precision, leaving a perfect hole (no chips, not oblong, and just big enough to take a Schrader valve and stem).
• Many hardware stores, sporting goods stores, retail outlets (like Sears and Target), gas stations and tire shops may carry standard bike tube sizes with Schrader valves and do NOT or will NOT carry bike tubes with Presta valves. Always carry at least one spare tube (and a tube repair kit) no matter the valve type. On week long or longer tours carry two spare tubes if riding solo and insure that others have at least one spare tube each (and insure that the spare tubes match the tire type). See Tire Repair Issues.
• There are punch-out spacer rings sold on the bicycle after market (found in some bike shops as well as online) to put in a Schrader rim sized hole that will resize the hole to fit a Presta (smaller sized) air valve, so as to allow either a Schrader or Presta sized valve/tube to be used, thus facilitating an easier to find Schrader valve tube (for emergency purposes, if starting with Presta stemmed tubes). Thus a rim with such a knock-out spacer will increase the tour's endurance/survival factor/probability. Please note that this kind of flat ring/spacer will not properly fit in a curved Aero rim's top hole (spoke side).
• Pump: Avoid automatic Presta/Schrader selector pumps with dual outlets; they always fail, usually sooner than later. Manual selector pumps do work but they are usually too big and heavy to carry on a bike tour. Pumps with one outlet seem to work the best in the long run (versus duel air outlet) - usually one has to manually change the valve fitting between Presta or Schrader valve types. It would be a perfect world if all tire valves were the same, but even in the bike tour world, most bikes are Presta and the trailer is Schrader - Yes, it would be nice to have the same valve and there are bikers that always make that conversion before a major bike tour. I try to avoid brand names, but the ToPeak Mountain Morph (no longer made) and the ToPeak Road Morph is the only pump that I ever used that actually reached the advertized 100 PSI (and 110 pound cyclists have also attained the same 100 PSI).
• Tires: 26 inch tires and Euro 700 mm (diameter, 700mm = 27.5 inches) tires are the most common tire diameter sizes in the world (don't use 700 c tires, they are road bike tires). One wants commonly available touring tires and rim sizes. Tire availability is a functioning characteristic of Survival.

• Wider tires (versus narrow racing tires) last longer, absorb bumps better, and endure better [Adventure Cycling]. Everything else being equal about a touring bike, wide tires statistically yield less flats. Yes, there is a change in performance (which is why racing tires are narrow). Racing tires do not endure long rides that are measured in weeks, period.
• Good Touring Wheels generally have more spokes, thicker/tougher spokes, and a 3x or 4x spoke lacing pattern (pronounced Three Cross or Four Cross).
• The Tires of a Touring Bicycle need to be a little wider and thicker than Road Bike Tires; 1.5 to 1.75 inch widths are more supportive of long distance rides than race skinny tires. Touring bike tires need to be able to handle heavier loads, last longer than road bike tires, facilitate a smoother ride (for the load), and take a little more abuse (usually at the cost of being slightly thicker and heavier).
• Whereas Tread is almost a non issue for road bike tires, Touring Tires need to be able to minimally perform in non-pavement conditions and may need to have some degree of dirt traction knobbing to the probability of off road use (there is always some off road riding on a tour).
• Trailer Wheel Tire(s) do NOT need any tread, in fact, the slicker/smoother that they are, the easier the effort it is to pull the trailer behind a bike. Trailer tires DO need to be tough enough to resist tire wear as well as to resist thorn punctures.
• Additional Wheel and Tire information may be found at this site's ALL About Wheels link.
• Caution: A few Trailer Wheel Rims need to address the heavy duty stress issue and people over 200 pounds need to address the heavy duty wheel/rim stress issue up-front.
• Brakes, Disk Versus Clamp (or Drum): It comes down to this (which actually happened to this author). A Clamp Brake wears down the Rim Side of the very Rim upon which your International Remote Tour depends on for carrying the cyclist and all that gear. A disk (rotor) is a separate item that fits on the wheel's hub and when a disk/rotor wears down, one simply easily replaces just the disk and the wear does not affect the rim directly. Granted, that stop and go movement does affect the torsional spoke to rim/hub flexing; no matter if the wheel has clamp, disk, or any other kind of brake. There are drum (hub) brakes which were an intermediate solution used on HD Solo and Tandem Bikes before disk brakes were widely available at a reasonable cost (drum brakes, IMHO, should no longer be suggested for new bikes or new wheel systems if disk brakes are available). When changing brake systems one should get a new wheel (hub with rotor, spokes, and HD Rim [an 'A' shaped Aero style rim is best]). There are different sized diameter disks, talk to your favorite bike shop/mech/tech for issues and suggestions; generally, bigger (to a point) is better, especially between a choice of two sizes (everything else being equal). Select common sized rotors/disks (easier to replace in remote countries), insure that both wheels have disk brake systems, and insure that the both disk brake systems are of the same rotor size. Note that on tours, we no longer carry a spare rotor but we do carry one set of spare brake pads. A cyclist can continue touring on just one disk brake. It is statistically rare that both pads would wear out at the same time.
• Cable operated Disk Brakes are more mechanically dependable than hydraulic disk systems. Hydraulic fluid, while still permitted to be carried in stored luggage cannot be carried on person or carried in carry-on luggage. Shipping and removing air out of a hydraulic system for destination setup/usage can be a difficult to task to perform (it will need a brake fluid bleed system and knowledge of how to use it), but some people still ship or fly their bikes in this manner.
• Rotors: It is wise to remove brake rotors for shipping. Re-installation requires having the right tool, but everyone on a bike tour should have and carry a brake rotor install tool (usually it is a T-25 Torx Tool but other types and sizes do exist). Know your bike's requirements. Some multi-tools have a T-25 Torx Key.
• Fenders: It's not hard to convince long distance bicycle tour riders that fenders are a necessity. Using a fender is a shift in mindset from speed performance riding where a fender is just seen as extra weight. For those riders, remember that touring is about endurance and survivability. Cycling all day long in the rain is par norm for touring. Two or three days in a weather front is not an unusual occurrence in any fourteen-day time frame. Reducing the amount of dirt, grime, mud, and water from the roadway or dirt-path to the bicycle, its components, its rider, other bicyclists, and trailers and/or panniers, greatly enhances Tour Survivability, rider comfort, and attitude.



Touring Bicycle Caveats
(Tour Bike Selection, Facilitation, or Shipping):

Top   How to Choose a Touring Bike - TOC


• Note that security is always an issue. Pretty things attract people (especially kids) and ugly things repel people. There are decals for sell on the Internet that make bikes look old, dented, dirty, scratched, and un-desirable. Some people put on address labels and then strip them off, leaving that ugly white gummy look of an old sticker (rub some dirt on it to make it non-sticky and more ugly). Some cyclists put short wraps of duct tape around tubes (like the stays or seat mast) to have available for emergency use, but it also can serve to ugly up a bike.
• Typically, security is a big city issue and not a rural, village, or remote outpost issue.
• See the Bicycle Packing and Shipping Checklist for bike shipping and transportation issues.
• Most good touring bike designs are very general looking.
• As a Rule-of-Thumb, it really helps to Keep Add-On Components Simple to un-mount for shipping, remount for tour use, and easily operate when needed. Give consideration to the mount and un-mount issues, usage, and shipping aspects when buying components or accessories.
• There are third party post and/or mount extensions available for adding devices to an already crowded or small handlebar or short stem/mast; available online or through your favorite bike shop.
• It also Helps with component replacement and repair when pieces are common and available worldwide (versus at the bleeding edge of technology where only a FedX shipment in a big city hundreds of miles away will resolve a missing, stolen, or broken component issue).
• The Pretty Things of new technology have a habit of disappearing too easily (some new technology bikes don't make it past the shipper).
• Further (and perhaps more detailed) reading about Tour Bike Selection Issues may be found online at Choosing a Touring Bike for the Road (http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/bikefortheroad.cfm), written by Larry Diskin (current or updated in 2011).
• See also, How to Choose a Touring Bicycle, written by Hal Amen, December 6, 2008 (still current), found at http://matadornetwork.com/notebook/how-to-choose-a-touring-bicycle/ .
• Cyclist in Trouble:
  1. Having dealt with the issue of needing to know the foreign word for word 'Air' a few times (hint, hint), more people understand the word 'Atmosphere' than the word 'Air' (in all Latin based languages).
  2. I have never had trouble pantomiming the up-down motion of operating a floor stand air pump to convey the fact that I need an Air Pump (I am usually directed to a Petro Station or a Tire Store, either of which is very satisfying).
  3. There is no place in the world (outside of big cities) where people will not stop to help a touring cyclist that is in trouble - it is an amazing statement about the human character.

Road Rules, Road Smarts, Road Survival and
Positive Bicycling Actions:

• ALWAYS Ride Bicycles With the Traffic, generally to the outside-edge of the outer-most road lane;
  NEVER Ride Bicycles Against the Traffic:
  -   ALL VEHICLES drive in the in the designated vehicle direction of the lane.
  -   Bicycles are non-motorized vehicles (BUT Bicycles are Vehicles).
  -   Pedestrian rules and customs do NOT apply to Vehicles:
  1. First of all, these are the laws in about 99% of the world countries. The laws are thought to be so common sense oriented that they are NOT posted on roadways.
  2. Second, cycling against traffic dramatically cuts down reaction time of the, now, oncoming vehicles, whereas cycling with the traffic increases the reaction time of oncoming vehicles.
  3. Third the likelihood of a cyclist (pedaling into traffic) being in an accident or causing an accident is increased above the statistical norm.
  Caveats:
  -   People who (incorrectly) think about riding a bicycle against the traffic are thinking that Walkers are encouraged and instructed to walk facing oncoming traffic. The notion of "Walking against Traffic" is advantageous for both the walker and a motor vehicle operator but it is mainly to help the walker. Walking towards traffic helps a walker to see traffic. It partially forces a walker to look at traffic. Whether a walker is right or wrong, the walker will get injured and the vehicle will likely not be damaged. It is to everyone's interest to force walkers to look at traffic. Walking towards oncoming traffic facilitates the capability of a quicker reaction time for the walker to jump out the way of an unwanted situation (quicker than having one's back to oncoming traffic).
  -   Most of the advantage of "Walking towards Traffic" is for the Walker. All of that 'Facing the Traffic' advantage is lost for bicycles at cycling speeds. The oncoming vehicles have little to no reaction time and have virtually no place to dodge the cycle; and at the same time, the bicycle likely can't be jumped out of the way of an oncoming vehicle. This is especially important where [I have seen this happen] maybe the front motor vehicle can see a rouge cyclist coming at the driver and a second motor vehicle cannot see the cyclist and the second driver may swerve into the next lane to pass or avoid the front most slowing vehicle, thus taking up all roadway space, thus further endangering the cyclist (by removing all exit options except the side ditch or fence).
  NEVER Ride Bicycles Against the Traffic.



• Do remove road/trail debris that can damage bicycles. See a screw, bolt, or nail on the road; remove it. Yes, it seems that in some cases one could spend all day cleaning up debris, but do make the roadway a little better and safer than you found it. Sometimes the foreign object is too big or long to carry as trash; in that case it is probably better to just move it off to the side of the roadway.

• Road Karma: I can't explain this, but on long tours, there have been many a time that someone has stated that they need x object and later, in time, someone would find x object along the way.
• Blocking doorways, entryways, workways, pathways, walkways, roadways, or bike ways by standing or bicycle parking is very déclassé. It is Bad Karma to negatively interfere with the actions or attempted actions of other people. Blocking cycle paths is easy to unintentionally do when the leader/map reader is stopping in order to orient one's self for a map reading or for route directions and other bikers queue up behind the leader; it is wise to get off to the side and not block traffic (bike, pedestrian, or motor). When parking for personal matters, get completely off the travel way. Get far enough off the road, that if you were to fall (or drop something), you (or it) still would not be on the travel way.
• Offer appreciation to someone when you see people do good.
• Taking food into restaurants is very rude and gives other cyclists, unfairly, a bad rap [Adventure Cycling issue too].
• Be courteous of the needs of other people and cyclists around you.
• Parking or leaning bicycles against glass windows is very dangerous, at worse one can break or scratch a window, and at best it makes one look extremely inconsiderate. [Adventure Cycling issue too].
• In Right-Side driving countries, ride cycles to the right side of the trail. Allow and facilitate other cyclists to pass your self/group. Provide a cheerful greeting or acknowledgment. If about to pass other cyclists or pedestrians, call out your intention (with enough time for the other party to react): "On your Left", "On your Right", "Behind You", ... . Provide a cheerful greeting as you pass people. [Left Side for Left driving countries - same same, flip sides.]

• Mind the mirror (and have a mirror).
• Always assertively announce one's self as one comes up behind someone on the trail - Be extra loud for Senior Citizens.
• Wearing ear plugs for music systems while cycling is not only dangerous to the wearer but to others around the wearer, especially to other passing cyclists or vehicles and to escalating situations. By-the-way, most tour operators will specifically NOT allow the wearing of ear plugs (for music listening) while cycling - it is grounds for terminating tour participation.
• There is a relatively new courtesy that we've seen on mountain dirt roads and paths. The lead biker or the lead of a tight group of bicycles will announce by voice and/or count of fingers how many people are in the group. "Two more bikes", "Six more bikes behind me", and/or hold up fingers for the same count, three bikes, three fingers. This good behavior comes from the ATV, Motocross, and Snowmobile worlds - Thanks.
• COURTESY SIGNALING AUTO TRAFFIC: Signaling Traffic is not for rookies nor the faint of heart, there is a lot of faith in mankind and experience involved. See the Cyclist Communication Signals Section for Cyclist to Cyclist Communication (it's different).
  The Situation is that a Lead cyclist or Solo cyclist will very often find themselves near or at the top of a hill where they can clearly see over the hill but no vehicle driver behind them can see over the hill or a lead bike can see clearly around a bend when those behind can't see clearly. Motorized vehicles will have slowed to the bikers speed for safety but they are anxious to get by the bikers. If conditions are right, the traffic can be signaled to pass or not pass - It is a much appreciated courtesy.
  • If it is unquestionably clear over the hill or around the bend, I wave back to the traffic with the "OK to pass wave" which is much like the military's "move forward" signal (open palm at rear hip or side, high arc extended swing of arm and palm moving forward to front of body, palm always facing forward except for the initial reach back). Some people won't pass no matter what, that's OK. Most will creep by and give a wave or short beep of thanks.
  • If it is Not clear, I give a "Do NOT Pass" signal which is arm straight out to the side, open hand, palm facing rearward, fingers splayed. I have Never had anyone pass once I gave the Do NOT Pass signal. I have saved some lives, perhaps my own.
  • If it is a judgment call, Do NOT get involved, leave the decisions up to the vehicle drivers.
• blank

Long Distance Bicycle Hire/Rental Issues    Top    Bicycle Checklist

Don't take anything for granted. We've had some good bicycle rental experiences and some real bicycle rental disappointments. In fact, these disappointments had lead us to buy Bike Friday* bicycles. We have generally found that if a bicycle service provider advertizes a type of bike or types of bikes, and maybe shows pictures of these bikes or maybe lists the bike specifications, then it seems that these types of companies deliver the goods at, or above, a desirable quality of service and product. Conversely, we have found that bicycle/touring service providers who do not specify the kind or type of bicycle that they will provide, leave a lot to be desired - These are the companies for which a traveler needs to be on guard, wary, and persistent in stating requests and/or needs.

The following list of Bicycle Items, Components, and Setup are characteristics that if not clarified, may lead to traveling frustration and regret. Another clue, to move on, is when Question and Answer communication turnaround time is greater than two weeks, especially when a third party is involved (which is not uncommon at the far reaches of the world). Remember that most foreign bicycle shops are closed from Saturday Noon till Monday Morning and this is usually the exact time that travelers arrive in country.

* The major reason why some people carry/bring/travel-with their own bike is to avoid surprises in quality standards and expectations (see below). The trade-off (or down-side) of carrying one's own bike is twofold: One, a single rider bicycle takes one case/suitcase (or one big shipping box). Two, the cyclist (or each cyclist) will probably have to be packing more bike accruements, for their bike/tour, in another suitcase, and the accruements take up valuable suitcase space.

BICYCLE HIRE/RENTAL ISSUES (Not Exhaustive):

Bicycle Rental/Hire Start and End Issues:
[ ] Agreed Pickup Place, Date/Day-of-Week, and Time 
 -  Careful about Holidays and Sundays, 
 -  No Tool access at hotels, hostels, inns, ...
    on weekends, holidays, or after the work day
 -  People who own tools, a big deal, take them home 
 -  Shop Hours, Know/Learn
[ ] Resolve Delivery/Pickup Issues/Logistics/Times
[ ] Resolve Delivery/Return Issues/Logistics/Times
[ ] Phone Number and Address, Know/Learn
 -  Know/Learn how to make a phone call to, 
    inside, and from other countries (this is compounded
    when extra calling codes are involved. 
[ ] ________________________ 
Navigation:
[ ] Maps
[ ] Written Instructions
[ ] Map Case (handlebar mount?, see through plastic case? other?)
[ ] Travel Computer (Required?  Anyway to learn about it before hand?
    Name/Brand, Type/Model)
[ ] Route, Maps, Schedule/Itinerary, Directions    
Travel Issues: 
[ ] Do travelers need to carry/manage/hand-over travel vouchers?
[ ] What to do or who to call when things go wrong
[ ] Access to an interpreter?
[ ] First Aid, emergency numbers
[ ] ________________________

Bicycle Rental/Hire Issues
Brakes: 
[ ] Front Tire Brake/Right Hand Lever (Euro/Motorcycle style)
[ ] Rear Tire Brake/Right Hand Lever (American style)
Pedals: 
    The only issue that we've run into was that the 
    pedal threads on the rental bike were partially 
    stripped and a crank arm had to be replaced 
    in a remote town.
[ ] Clean (nothing on the pedals)
[ ] Mountain
[ ] Tow Clip
[ ] Tow Basket
[ ] Shoe Clip / Style _________
[ ] Bring your own?  Potential fitting issues? 
Tires:
    We, once had a rental bike with a Presta front wheel valve
    and a Schrader back wheel valve and a two way pump that
    didn't.
[ ] Schrader Valve (Universal Car Type)
[ ] Presta Valve (Skinny Racing type)
[ ] Puncture Lining (plastic strip)
[ ] Slime Tube
[ ] Tour Slick
[ ] Tour Ribbed
[ ] Mountain / Knobby
[ ] Other Tread _____________
Tire Pump:
[ ] Schrader
[ ] Presta
[ ] Dual Presta/Schrader 
    Note: Dennis has never seen a dual outlet 
          tire pump work properly, ever.
Sprocket Rings:
[ ] Front x {1,2,3,4}, Rear y {1,5,6,7,8,9,10} (x*y Speed)
[ ] Drive {Chain, Belt, Shaft}
[ ] Other ______________________
[ ] Tuned? Inspected? Tested?
    Some/Most bike touring companies rent their bikes through 
    local bike shops which, in turn, may or may not care about
    your well being or needs.
    Worse, a cheap bike may be purchased locally just for
    your ride and the bike will be disposed after your ride
    (the give away was when we were told to not worry about
     oiling the old chain for a seven day ride).
Bike Style:
[ ] Mountain
[ ] Tour
[ ] Recumbent, Up Handle
[ ] Recumbent, Down Handle
[ ] Hybrid 
[ ] Handlebar position (way above, above, even, below: the crotch.
    Typically, the older one becomes, the higher the 
    preferred handlebar height.)
[ ] Other ___________
Seat:
[ ] Theirs
[ ] Yours
[ ] Seat Mount (different countries have different seat 
    mounts this can be a very problematic issue. The USA
    typical mount is NOT the world standard)
[ ] Seat Post Size (seat post diameters are NOT standard.
    You may need  post shims)
[ ] Seat Shock [see previous]
Helmet:
[ ] Theirs (will always be cheap and crappy)
[ ] Yours  (Bring your own, takes up space)
Tools:
[ ] What is supplied, What is promised?
[ ] Flat Tire Repair (patches, self stick / glue, 
    pry tools [sometimes called tire tools])
[ ] Supplied __________
[ ] Bring your own
[ ] Bring ___________
Racks:
[ ] None
[ ] Front Racks
[ ] Rear Racks
[ ] Rack Type (straight frame, mouse trap, hook/loop for pannier(s))
[ ] Seatpost/tube Clamp (holds less weight)
[ ] Bring your own? Insure that bike has welded rack receiver nuts, else
    you may need a clamp on the seat post type of rack (weight limited). 
    Bolts/Washers/Spacers provided?  Nut weld positions are NOT universally the same -
    Will probably need universal fitting racks/pieces. 
    May need access to tools (rechargeable drilling tool, bit, key, etc.)
Panniers, Handlebar Bag, Other bag(s):
    When a pannier is placed on a new/different rack, it will need
    to be re-fitted. This is not complicated but it is a time 
    consuming process with a per unit learning curve.
[ ] Handlebar Bag
[ ] Seat Bag
[ ] Front Pannier (one, both?)
[ ] Rear Pannier (one, both?)
[ ] Rear Rack Top Bag
[ ] Front Rack Top Bag
[ ] Other
Lighting: (We try to not ride at night in strange lands, but when things go bad, 
    one does what one has to do. We have. Be Prepared.)
[ ] Head Light
[ ] Tail Light
[ ] Other __________
[ ] Battery(ies) / Types? / Who supplies?

Group Cycling, Group Bicycle Touring,
and Group Bicycle Touring Issues

Top

Group Organization Issues
Group (or Solo) Route Planning, Major Issues
Group Self Contained Cycling with Camping
Group Food Logistics
Group Supplies/Equipment Checklist
Group Communication and Action When Riding Together (of sorts)
Group Riding Decision Issues/Comnunication/Ethic
Bicycle Hand Signals, Foot Signals, Silent Signals, Voice Signals
Often Related: Expedition/Group Tool Kit Checklist
Often Related: Expedition Bicycle Touring Issues
Often Related: Foreign and Domestic Tour Planning Checklist

Group Organization Issues:

• Major day to day group decisions are centered on water, food, route, and place of stay,
  [Herzberg and Maslow would agree].
• Group Leadership and Item Distribution Issues: Usually, in non-camping tour groups, the leader takes the front position or a local guide takes the front position and the leader floats. On camping tours, depending on whether the leaders are paid or not, the tools may be split up among the riders or one person may carry. In non-paid leadership groups, the group may distribute tools and the group leader may bike from any position or multiple positions. In non-paid leadership groups, the best qualified person may carry the group first aid kit. The best qualified mechanic may carry the tools and have no other group equipment or supplies to carry, and maybe no other responsibilities (Expedition or Group Tool Kits weigh from 10 to 15 pounds!). In camping groups with paid leadership, the leader is usually at the rear or drifts back to the rear, and the leader usually carries a group first aid kit and carries bike tools - in these cases, the leader usually does not participate in food management (except to set up cook/cleanup rotations). These are additional organizational issues (tools, first aid, and supplies distribution).
• Caution, Group Tools Possession Issue:
  
  

• Fact 1 - The longer that one is riding on a tour,
  especially when time is measured in weeks or months,
  the less that one wants to carry.
  
• Fact 2 - Tools are heavy!
• Fact 3 - There is usually no need to carry duplicate tools.
  
  
• Therefore, the Good News is at the start of most organized group rides, there is often an agreement to carry only one of many of the same tools.
  
• However, the Bad News is that sometimes, cyclists part ways or loose bikes or equipment (for a variety of reasons). The concern is about the parting biker having or having had a special tool or something else that the group needs or will need (like tickets, keys, codes, telephone numbers, ...).
  
• Discuss: Make a commitment to protect the remaining group's travel and safety integrity when member equipment/knowledge separation occurs. This usually means that someone/everyone in the group needs to remember to get the needed object/information from the departing biker or that the object needs to be purchased (or ordered or a particular issue needs to be addressed) at the next opportunity.
• Group Bicycle Parts/Components/Tools Issue: (Repeated from Bicycle Configuration)
• When touring parties have the same (interchangeable) equipment like tires, rims, tubes, spokes, derailers/dérailleurs, chains, brakes, pads, and cables then less kinds of spare equipment need to be carried.
• When touring, if bike components are common and NOT at the bleeding edge of technology, then replacement parts (or solutions) are more likely to be found worldwide.
• When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one has to address security and theft temptation at a higher degree than would be normal.
• When touring, if bikes are the very latest in cool technology, then one will probably have to address replacement parts non availability issues.
See Bicycle Tour Group Tool Kit/Checklist

About Group Self Contained Cycling with Camping:

Group Bicycle Camping - Key Advantages and Disadvatages


• One of the advantages of group cycling is that some of the required supplies may be be split up among the riders, thus somewhat lessening the load to carry per person. In some cases, some supplies may only need to exist once or only a few such supplies need to exist, certainly not the same supply for each person. For example, only one first aid kit needs to exist; everyone may carry their own band aid kit, but the group only needs one group first aid kit. The group only needs one set of cooking cutlery. Sharing the load creates a group inter-dependency dynamic.
• One of the disadvantages of group cycling can be that of dependability. Everyone trusts that each individual will perform their journey and their duties in a timely manner.
• A disadvantage of solo or couple riding is that all of the supplies still need to be carried, regardless of group or individual supply status. Two riders should carry a heavy duty road crash first aid kit. Two riders still require cooking cutlery.
• An advantage of solo or couple riding is that if a problem occurs, all supplies and decision making components are on hand.

Group Bicycle Camping - Key Risks


• One of the risks of group riding is who should carry what, where. "Where" has to do with the enroute and arrival travel position. For example, if there is one group first aid kit, what is the statistically best place to carry it. The answer is to carry the First Aid Kit at the rear of the line. The first aid kit (and group tool kit) has little benefit at the front of the line if injuries and breakdowns occur behind the kits (the need for first aid and mechanical repair are often associated together). Usually communication forward cannot or will not exist, but when one can count on the remaining line moving forward, then the supplies will arrive, sometimes slowly but they will get there.
• Another risk addresses that of preparing and cooking group meals in a timely manner. This is a situation best served when the supplies arrive early at the destination campsite. Thus, it is statistically better if some supply items arrive early and some arrive later. A wise leader will encourage the matching of supplies to certain people based on their skills and/or their riding style. On a scale of what is important, first aid, mechanical break-down, and cooking usually top the list, other group supply and distribution issues are usually involve less risk.

Group Bicycle Camping - Key Planning Issues

• There are three key touring issues that determine tour or route logistics plans/decisions/actions.
  These issues are the availability of:
1. Water
2. Food
3. Camp/Lodging Location

• The campsite does not have to be in a camp ground but it must be legal. Often, in urgent situations, a public facility may be used (with permission) like a Fire Station, Residence, Church, or School yard. Water is a must and sometimes it needs to be carried for a day or two - Water is very heavy to carry. Sometimes Food is not available for a day or more - Food must be purchased and carried so that it lasts until it's next availability in a store.
• Group Safety is not a given. Outside of the US, group safety can even be a travel planning and routing issue.
• In the mountains and deserts, what lies ahead is not always known. In addition geography changes (floods, slides, earthquakes) and weather are big variables to any travel. It is important to get information about the trail ahead from reliable resources.


See Tour Planning (Foreign and Domestic)
See Tour Distance Calculation Metrics

Food Logistics (Adventure Cycling Method):

• In the evening, as people arrive at camp, the first thing that they are to do is to bring their group gear/equipment/supplies/food to the cook/gear assembly area (often at a central picnic table, but not always). This act is performed before tent pitching or self maintenance.
• Each morning, after breakfast and after lunch are prepared, cyclists are to pick up their portion of supplies and food to carry for that day, the cyclists must do a good job of distributing the weight evenly among themselves (the fair distribution task is needed and expected).
• Cyclists also pickup their lunch pack for the day (during or immediately after breakfast). Of all the group supply items, key/reusable/remaining food tends to be more carried by the cooks in rotation and they usually leave camp early so as to have something purchased and prepared for the rest of the cyclists upon their later arrival at the next camp destination - Sometimes cooks need to leave before the morning's Map Briefing (by pre arrangement with the group leader).
• Usually food duties are rotated (for self contained meals) such that food is mostly purchased at/near/just before arriving at the evening camp location for that evening's (usually hot) meal, tomorrow's breakfast (which can be hot or cold), and lunch (cold and usually prepared that morning as a sack lunch).
• Cooks usually carry the things that need to arrive first (stove, pot, and cutlery) or they see that the fast riders arrive with said items. Because of work duty rotations, the supply item distribution tends to be re-distributed for each morning, i.e., people don't always carry the same item. On occasion, especially on the Great Divide, food may need to be purchased for three or four days at a time.
• Multi-day food purchases tend to gravitate towards being as light as possible (dry goods and dehydrated goods).
• Generally, no more food is carried for the group than will last to the next known place to purchase food.
• Generally in groups, people carry about the same weight in food stuffs as individuals in a group as they would carry as solo or couple riders who are bicycling the same route/segment.


See Generalized Camping Food List

Bicycle Touring Group Supplies Checklist:

• First Aid Kit [usually, the last person carries, Itemized List, a major road rash crash kit is needed even for just one rider. It is wise to discover and designate Medical People as group medics (EMTs, Nurses, or Physicians)].
• Bicycle Tour Group Tool Kit/Checklist (Itemized List; In some cases, the leader just needs to know that at least one person in the group has one of the following tool or supply items. The tool kit weight ranges from 10 to 15 pounds.
  Many Comments
• Pots & Pans: Usually 2 Big Pots (8 Quart, 1 is usually just for Hot Water, the other for the main bulk meal), 2 Quart Pot (for side dishes), 1 Big Fry Pan (usually eggs or pancakes, can also be for Wok purpose, and can be used to hold salad stuff. Covers too. This is the standard setup for Adventure Cycling's 15-16 people trek for 10 to 90+ self contained days). The cooking equipment usually need to be cleaned/rinsed upon arrival because people pack things into them enroute.
• Clean-Up Gear: scrounge, metal scour pad, bio degradable soap, small bottle/container bleach/sanitizing agent (also used to purify water, 5 drops per boiled gallon), paper towels, trash bags, can/bottle opener. Sometimes, a plastic basin.
• Stoves, Two (Coleman or MSR, liquid multi fuel type [White Gasoline / Coleman Camp Fuel or Unleaded Regular Gasoline - most common fuel in the world], Coleman Camp Fuel burns cleanest). Remember to top off stoves with fuel before the trip start and after each cooking meal. Make sure that at least one stove and one big pot arrive first at the camp destination.
• Fuel Bottles, 6 Quantity, usually in 12 Ounce Volume size, with fuel, numbered for usage order, usually burn about one bottle per day.
• Basic Spices: Salt and Pepper, Spice Carousel (nutmeg, curry, paprika ...), hot sauce, over time usually distribute and carry some left over things like small Vinegar, small Oil (Olive / Cooking), herb packages (Greek, Italian, Provence).
• Cutlery: spatula, large spoon, ladle, medium and large knife (can use pocket knife for small work), optional long fork, butane lighter/matches (water proof container), plastic trash bags, pot gripper/handle, hot pot pad / glove, cutting board, grader, 1 or 2 gallon water bladder, gallon size plastic zipper bags as well as paper lunch sacks, marker pen, net to carry everything and sometimes dunk in boiling water, bottle opener (usually on a knife), can opener (often a large P-38 or on knife), some rubber bands, sometimes a group saw, sometimes a potato peeler. Wash in one big pot, rinse in other big pot.
• Water Filter: Main Pump Unit, spare filter, hoses, pre-filter, and bag. Sometimes a sanitizing agent (Clorox [unscented], other; avoid repeated use of iodine tablets in long tours - Ray Hanson, AC Expedition Tour Guide). Sometimes a Steri-Stick or something similar (field reputation is mixed extremes).

• Dining Fly / Space Blanket, something in the 8x8 Foot to 10x10 Foot size range, w/ guy lines, a few light weight, easy push, stakes.
• Marking Pen: Permanent Ink, Black, Quantity of 2 is better than 1; a pen sized style is most functional (versus the fat or long markers); many purposes, especially for specifying food use (Day of Week, Meal Time, owner/preparer, ...), and eventually used often by everyone.
• Accumulated Supplies/Condiments: After a while, cyclists get into a sharing routine/rhythm and people purchase food or things for the group to share over a span of time. Some of food items just don't spread evenly for one meal or one day, like olive oil, salt, pepper, spices, leftover food, ... . Some of the supply items have their own usage cycles, like sealable plastic bags (used for multiple purposes), napkins/paper-towels, matches, ... . This group of items slowly builds over time and seems to be group regulated (you buy it, you carry it OR group shared).
• Wine & Spirits Caveat: What a touchy subject. It is best to keep such things to one's self or at least outside of group involvement and never use group money for a purchase. Remember that for some, it is a religious issue; for some it is a first or second hand abuse issue; and for some it is mental health issue - Please respect other people's circumstances.
• Food Protection - Bear Safe(s) or Bear Bag: Extra nylon cord; bear bag, nylon cords (2 long), pulley, throwing sock or big commercial bear proof food container [www.bearvault.com, www.backpackerscache.com, www.wild-ideas.net, REI, and EMS - in campgrounds with bear proof trash can bins, Wally Werner (AC Expedition Guide) places the food in a bag and sets the closed sealed bag next to a trash can inside the bear proof bin (smart actually - one may need to see the latest bear-proof canisters now at parks and forests).

Group Communication and Action When Riding Together (More or Less):

• Group Communication and Traffic Warning Solutions: In groups with cyclists riding together or in close proximity, Warnings Statements are passed up and down the chain of riders and repeated. For example: "Car Back," means that a car is coming from the rear and passing everyone, usually on narrow streets. Other Common Warnings are: "Car Up" (or "Car Front"), "Truck Back", "Bike Back" (a solo biker passing the group), "Hikers Ahead", "Group Ahead", "Elk Up", ... . BEWARE, When animals are about, the signals are often only hand gestures or not given at all, people just stop suddenly and frantically look for cameras. See Photo Stops.
• Group Silent Signals: See Bicycle Hand Signal, especially for Animal(s) About!
• Group Communication and Change of Travel Direction Solutions: On non-camping tours, there are often a few hundred yards/meters of separation between the leader and the tail.
  1. At key places the Leader needs to and will wait for the tail to close.
  2. At other times, the leader will post a cyclist to give directions and physically remain until the last cyclist passes.
  3. In lieu of a 'traffic control posting,' sometimes when those in front have made a turn (an unobvious change of direction), the person at the head of the gap should wait at the turning point for the next rider in order to assure the following riders make the turn - this waiting responsibility is passed on to the following rider.
• Group Communication, Call for Single File (Issues and Solution): Use the word(s) "Single-File", "Single-Line", or sometimes "File-Up", as a command (to advise the other person to form up, behind, in a single line). Use the word "Filing" (File-Ling or Line-Ing) as an action statement to warn the other rider as to why one is suddenly braking and dropping back. One warns the other rider or else the other rider may also automatically brake also, thus making it more difficult to file behind them. This activity may be associated with a "Car Front / Car Back" warning statement.
• See Bicycle Hand Signal for Single File!
• Watch out for other tour groups, especially bus groups, as they tend to not pay attention to their surroundings. Let them know that you are there, shout or loudly say Bicycle (or Velo [French for Bicycle], Bici [Italian/Spanish/Portuguese for Bike, in English pronounced as 'BeeChee'], or something).
Be extra observant and more careful when in populated areas and on trails that are shared with other kinds of users. Note that this site author has surprised elder people by passing from behind and had them yell at him because the seniors did not hear the verbal warning or bell signal(bad hearing, hearing aids removed, hearing aids turned down?). Also, bicyclists stopped on a trail side, talking to one another often don't watch what they are doing - many cyclists have back stepped into a bicycle path without thinking (to include moi). Give warnings early; let everyone know that cyclists are about, ahead of time. It is the Adventure Cycling Tour Policy to have bikers get 10 feet off a roadway but that, of course, may be impractical for certain real life conditions.
• Group Communication - Signal Attention (Look for It): In groups, watch for hand signals from other tour group members (no matter how far ahead they are): Particularly watch for stop, slow, and turn signals. But the hand signals in the wilderness are very important because silent signals often indicate wild game ahead and it helps if everyone remains quiet. Be mentally ready for people in front to suddenly drop or set their bikes down in order to gain access their cameras.
• Group Caution/ Bad Re-Action Warning: In groups, especially for side by side riding, when a vehicle (bike or automobile) is approaching from either direction, make a special effort to fall into a single file. There is often a tendency, since the bikes are already side by side, for the bike riders to split apart laterally (even if the riders aren't even with each other). This action actually endangers one of the two bikers, because the oncoming vehicle driver does not know what to do. Driving between the riders is unsafe and there may not be enough room. Picking which rider to come closest is unsafe and always jeopardizes someone.
• When Stopping in a Group, EVEN IF ALONE: When stopping for any reason, LOUDLY ANOUNCE that one is STOPPING and PULL OVER; a hand signal is not sufficient because the next rider may not be looking at the moment. The reason that one pulls over is that humans naturally line-up or align themselves (and their bikes), so just getting out of the common travel lane/line-up/queue will prevent many rear-end collisions. GENERALLY, most bike on bike collisions come from the following accident cascade of events:
  1. The lead individual is thinking that they are alone (or not thinking at all) and stops quickly without pulling over nor announcing/verbalizing the intended stop.
  2. The next rider is positioned in line with the lead biker.
  3. The next rider is looking away from the front (often looking at the same event/view that is causing the lead rider to stop).
  The worst multiple bicycle collision witnessed (by this author) involved three riders in a line of four riders in a foreign country and local adults and children were cheerfully waving and yelling 'hello' to the visiting cyclists and the lead cyclist stopped in place to take a picture (boom, boom, boom) all cyclists were looking to their left.
• Action/Rule: The cyclist to the outside/curb-side/road-edge of the lane should have the right-of-way.
• Action/Rule: Children are 100% unpredictable. Around kids or kids with parents, slow down or stop - wait out the situation, give parents time to address kids or the situation. When parents are on trails with kids, the parent is trying to teach kids about the joys of biking or the outdoors - make it a positive experience, say something nice to the parent or kid - Isn't this Cool!
• Warning/Action: When driving on side by side on Right Hand Roads, it is safest for the left most rider to fall in behind the right most bike and form a single file. The reason evolved from the fact that it is the cyclist nearest the passing vehicle is in more danger - that person will most likely react to a passing vehicle once they become aware, in fact most times the cyclist's instinctive reaction is to move away from the danger (thus putting the other bike in danger - I've witnessed side impact collisions between bicycles). Note that children should not be allowed to ride to the inside at all and their action is 100% unpredictable. When driving on Left Hand Roads, it is safest for the right most cyclist to get behind the left most bike and form a single file and the same reasoning applies.
• Action for Sight Viewing or Photo Stops:

• If a person is next to or in proximity of one or more riders, then SHOUT/LOUDLY SAY the word "STOPING," to warn others that one is stopping (and perhaps driving erratically) AND PHYSICALLY PULL OVER. This statement warns the other riders to be cautious of the caller's unusually, and perhaps dangerous, driving behavior.
• If animals are about, make sure that no one is behind you, use the hand signal (Devil Horns fist overhead), pull over, be quiet and slow in motion. See Animals About Hand Signal
• The 'stop' may not necessarily be to take a photo, but maybe to just enjoy a view or a moment; then loudly state 'Stopping' and pull over from the bike way/lane/path.


• Very often, Photo Stops evolve into a snack, meal, or group break, and they often become a bladder break.
• It is very common for other people to either share the same idea of a view, see the view/event at the same time or to be curious about what one person saw that the others may have missed. Expect or be prepared for others to join the first person to stop for the view and always expect that another rider just closed-up from behind. Pull over and state 'stopping'.
• From behind, for a moment, a photo stop can look like shear pandemonium.
• Please note that about 80% of all chain breaks that happen to experienced riders, happens at the startup after stopping to look at a view because most people stop so suddenly that their bikes remain in the touring road speed sprocket setting and not in a startup sprocket setting. If needed, walk the bike into the proper sprocket setting.

Bicycle Touring Group Riding Decision Issues/Communication/Ethic (Adventure Cycling Style):

• There can be a tremendous lack of direct communication between group members while they are cycling. By the end of a day, where average touring distances are 45-50 miles on dirt/mountains trails or 50-60 miles on gravel/paved roads. There can easily be 10 or more miles of separation between the first destination camp arrival and the last person on the road. Cell phones, often, cannot get reception in remote areas where people like to conduct bike touring. There are times when there is No Way to directly Communicate between riders.
• Cyclists are not expected to ride together, in mass, to get from A to B. It is common for some people to group up and ride in the same packet for some duration, especially if they are progressing at the same speed. But no one has to ride together. Also, there are often side stops to make (pastry shops, coffee shops, cyber cafe´s, hardware stores, bicycle shops, grocery stores, museums, and libraries or stores with Internet Access), plus tourist or historical sites or views (some of which may be someone's actual purpose for attending the tour - ergo, one expects them to take more time before arriving at camp).

• Things happen and things can go wrong. Campsites can be closed, roads can be closed, passes can be closed, fires or floods could have destroyed a route or a destination, people can have life altering experiences that force them to temporarily close their business.
• For safety purposes the person with the group tools and the group first aid kit usually rides last, or drifts back to ride last early in the day. This person is usually the group leader. This is the evolved behavior for the group and a group accepted risk. Many people carry a better than average first aid kit but hardly anyone carries extra tools (mainly because of the weight). Usually being remote from communication is part of the adventure - who wants a bicycle city adventure?
• If the group leader is at the rear, then this means that cyclists who are at the front of the column will be the first people to arrive at most unknown situations (closures, detours, and unexpected changes). The early arrivals, who are at a decision point will need to make prudent decisions for themselves as well as for the group, often on the spot. Furthermore, this decision must be communicated to the rest of the group.
• When the front runner's decision is made, it usually needs to be communicated to the group. There are (at least) three ways to communicate rearward to the group.
1. This is probably the least dependable method: Sometimes a proprietor can and will communicate the issue to arriving cyclists or they can put up a sign. This does have its applications.
2. Using the "Peel-Off" Method, the First Cyclist can wait for the Second Cyclist and relay the message. Then the Second Cyclist waits for the Third Cyclist, and so on ... .
3. Probably the most common method of communicating backwards (for Adventure Cyclists) Cyclist-to-Cyclist, is to use the "Message Flag" Method. In this case, the First Cyclist (or the first few cyclists) write the pertinent facts and decision on a scrap of paper and stick the note inside a plastic baggie type container (if available) and place the container/note onto a Touring Reflector Triangle by use of an attachment device (blanket pin, safety pin, nail, stick, duct tape, ...) and then the Triangle is wrapped around a pole, tree, or post in such a way that cyclists will see the Message Flag.
• Flag Position Note: Cyclists must be alert for Message Flags (Reflector Triangle) and the flags should be posted where they will be seen, preferably for a long viewing distance.
• Last Person Note: The last person collects the message and Reflector Triangle.
There are just about only three ways to get a message forward:
1. Flag a vehicle, catch a ride, load a down rider, and/or send a message.
2. Call the destination Campground or Place of Stay.
3. Notify Emergency Services (only for Emergencies).
• Assumptions:
1. Remaining riders will stay on the planned course. When people go off route, they are on their own for catching up to the group. BTW, any course changes are executed together at the group's map briefing (typically held in the morning, but sometimes in the evening). If someone deviates from the planned course, then it is quite possible that they may be out of any communication about a change of plan.
2. People will act responsibly. For example, if someone is the cook for the night, they should not be attending a movie or going out for their own dinner [this has actually happened - AC Tour Guide Stories]. BTW, group members tend to be wonderful for covering for one another and for addressing poor behavior.
• There are plenty of tour route distractions and in some cases, someone can just be lost or even, rarely, they could be sick or injured. It is expected that separated riders will make best efforts to return to the group in a timely manner, or, as a minimum, communicate to the group their circumstance and intention. When people become separated from the group, they are responsible for themselves and they have an obligation to communicate to the group in a timely manner.
• When riders go off the planned route they can miss enroute messages and changes in plans. There are many benefits to staying on course, but If a group member goes off course, then they are responsible for all of the subsequent effort that it takes to catch up to the group, to re-join the group, or to communicate their circumstance and intention.

Bicycle Hand Signals, Foot Signals, Silent Signals, Voice Signals:

About Tandem Bicycle Touring and
Tandem Bicycle Tour Issues
Tandem Aliases: Two Up, Two Person Bicycle, Bicycle Built for Two

Riding a Tandem is a true adventure. Cyclists that ride tandems evolve a special relationship of trust, cooperation, and communication. The reason for this dual rapport is that trust must evolve in order to survive. There are people who can't ride double. The back seat rider totally depends on the front seat driver to communicate the bicycle's mechanical needs (in order to pedal or not pedal at the same time, or to know when to give a slight power-stroke pause to facilitate shifting) or to communicate upcoming movement changes (turning left, slowing, coasting, ...). The front seat rider depends on the back seat rider for mechanical information and feedback (we're in [or not in] the #2 ring, trim [derailer-basket], slow down, up shift, ...) as well as situational information (antelope at 3 O'clock - 200 meters, car coming at 9 o'clock, just passed a hidden turnoff sign for ...). Riding a Tandem is not complicated; it just takes a little knowledge and practice. Herein, we've gathered some knowledge and experience to share with tandem riders.

Tandem Bicycle Touring Issues for Experienced Tandem Riders     (Newer Tandem Riders Next)

A Tandem allows an experienced cyclist to share the bicycle camping and/or touring experience with someone who may otherwise not be able to handle a bike alone or handle a bike for a period of time. Kudos to the reader for checking this cycle touring section. Remember that tandem touring does not necessarily mean camping, but we will raise the camping issues herein.

Big Issue #1, Shipping: Tandems, being bigger than single rider bikes, will require larger shipping boxes. While shipping companies like FedX or UPS will ship larger bike frames, at an additional cost, airlines won't. Thus, if one is going to air ship their tandem, it needs to be able to break down for packing. The result is that one will need to ship a tandem in a large single bike box (as 2 or more frame pieces) or two boxes or two suitcases. This, of course, is a major bike purchase issue. If one is planning on touring via an airplane for travel, then be sure to buy / own / have a bike that is designed to break down for shipping (or have a bike shop install break down couplers). Breaking down a bike for shipping is usually not needed while one uses ship or train transport. Buses are problematic for any bike but more so for tandems and almost no driver is going to facilitate a fully loaded touring tandem bike inside a bus. Also see Tandem Bicycle Shipping and Transporting Issues and Solutions

Big Issue #2, Cargo Limit: A tandem bike can generally carry four panniers, however two bicycles can generally carry eight panniers (not counting trailers or add-on devices). So two people on a tandem cycle cannot carry as much as two people on separate bikes. That's a big deal and it effects planning and preparation work. There are pretty much two solutions, use a trailer or learn to pack lighter. We have implemented solutions with either option. Of course, if one does not have to carry camping gear on their tandem, then this issue may go away. For Tandem Bicycle Touring, use the Bicycle Touring Checklist and/or the Bicycle Camping Checklist.

Tandems pull a trailer a little easier than their single rider counterparts. Both a longer wheelbase and two engines (versus one) seems to make trailer usage more compatible and achievable. Note that pulling a trailer on a tandem produces the turning radius of a Bus. One will learn to plan turns and rest stops more so than one ever thought about the subject on a single rider bike. There have been times where we have had to perform 180 degree turn arounds on two track dirt roads and single track trails where one person had to swing the trailer around while another moved the bike around. In fact, on one single track trail, we had to disconnect the trailer in order to turn the bike around.

Tandem Bicycle Touring Issues for Newer Tandem Riders

It does not take long for the front seat person to learn to make the back seat person happy and it does not take long to anticipate each other's actions. Tradition has it that the person up front is called the 'Captain' and the person on the back seat is called the 'Stoker'. Captain is the term for the person who controls movement and direction on a vehicle. Stoker is the term for the person that generates Power, like the person that feeds coal to the fire for a steam engine. Captains are also called Pilot and Stokers are commonly referred to as the Engine; sometimes back-seat and front-seat works just as well as a reference. Many other analogous terms are used for Captain and Stoker and it isn't difficult to invent terms. More Humor - On our bike, the back seat is called Gunner (dog spray).



How to Start Pedaling a Stationary Tandem Bicycle:

* * * The actual SECRET to a faultless tandem start is perfectly neutral bike balance. * * *
- Dennis Struck                            
 

The Stoker (typically¹) needs to be positioned with both feet on the pedals and poised for a power pedal stroke (usually with one of the crank arms at 45-60 degrees from the top position) while the Captain is holding the bike, one or both brakes locked. The Stoker's pedal stroke purpose is to get the bike moving while the Captain is busy re-situating from a standing position to a pedaling position. The Stoker knows to push the pedals by the Captain's mounting movement (force on the pedal).

The Captain needs to decide which start pedal is 'Up', it is usually the pedal on the opposite side of where the Captain is standing². The Captain's initial position is one foot on the ground, the other foot on a pedal, and at least one hand on a brake; the Captain usually asks the Stoker, "Ready?"; and when Stoker is ready and there are no hazards and the Captain has the bike perfectly balanced left-right; the Captain mounts the bike by stand-pushing on the pedal, releasing the brake, and re-positioning onto the seat and pedals at the same time. The initial movement by the Captain is to assist the Stoker in getting the bicycle moving (first priority) and then settle into the seat more comfortably and then maybe re-position on, or clip-in, the pedals. When a tandem Captain has his or her stuff together, the entire Start event will take place in two to four pedal revolutions.



1 Start Variations:
- One of the neat things about a Tandem (and a Triple, Trike, or Quad) is that it can allow some people with physical challenges to ride a bicycle.
- A large minority of tandem riders start a ride with one foot each on the ground - there are a variety of reasons, the most important is comfort with a method that works for that team.
- It doesn't take long to learn to work around certain human features or bike features.
- On steeper slopes, especially if on dirt, generally start with the pedals level to the true horizon.
2 Start Issue:
- If the Captain is straddling the bike, the Up pedal will usually be above the lowest ground elevation of the two sides (often the right side, due to the road shoulder sloping away and down from the road surface), or else the Captain would have to do more of a leg reach if standing/starting from the lowest elevation/side.



Start and Stop Issues^{1, 2}:
There are a few different ways to start. The actual method that one uses does not matter as long as both team members agree and it feels OK:
• One method, the majority method, is to have the Copilot mounted and on both pedals.
• Another method, common to a large minority, is to have the Pilot and Copilot both with one foot on the pedals and one foot on the ground.
• Also a less common method exists where the Stoker holds the bike and the Captain is fully on the pedals.
There are good reasons for using any method, but the method that works best is what the team agrees to or migrates to, experimenting is encouraged. Note: when each team member is starting with a foot on the ground the team must pedal In Phase with one another (or else one person on a sloping hill side is going to need mighty long legs to reach up to the opposite pedal).

When stopping, a Captain should consider advising the Stoker whether to stay on the pedals. Many teams operate with a default stop method (typically, the back seat comes off the pedals at a stop) and the Captain advises of the exception (Stay On-the-Pedals, Stay-Seated, or words to that effect). One behaves differently at a Stop Light/Signal versus pulling off the road for a rest or water break, but very often the Stoker cannot see what is in front or see what is causing the Stop. It is always wise to keep the Stoker informed. Note that Verbal Warnings/Communications/Commands are listed at Tandem Bicycle Communication Terms.

To Pedal or Not to Pedal: My respects to Shakespeare and it is a big question. For the most part, most Non Tandem riders do not know that the Pilot and Stoker must pedal at the same time or coast at the same time. If one of them pedals, then both pedals move at the same time (unless the bike has independent coasting, most don't). So it is extremely important for the tandem team to coordinate their pedaling or coasting efforts or else one of the team members is going to get a pedal rap on their heel and/or loose footing. This Question is the biggest initial traveling teamwork issue and it takes a little time to work out a routine. Once the routine is established, with two way communication, the thought process moves to a lower part of the brain thus leaving room in the higher part of the brain to enjoy the majesty of the tour (one of the purposes for touring). It's kind of cool!

Isn't Shakespeare a Norman word meaning Politician (Spear-Shaker)?   ;-)

Some Communication Notes: It is always nice when one team member acknowledges an important statement by the other team member, but we don't get compulsive about it. A Captain may be assured that sometimes what the Stoker hears is Blah or Blah Blah and the Stoker just knows what the Captain means; the Captain is positioned to speak away from the Stoker and with wind or road noise or such, the Stoker will not always clearly hear the Captain. It is more difficult to hear for either team member when in traffic. There are different kinds of Hand (Silent), Foot, and Voice Signals presented for all cyclists at General Cycling Signals (from the previous Signals Section) and there are special Tandem Only Communications in a following section.

Some tandem teams have electronic communication headset systems. The communication systems can be wired (less cost) or wireless (more cost, more functional). These systems are powered by battery. As with other battery issues, one time batteries last longer and take up less space and rechargeable batteries don't last as long and require the supporting battery recharging equipment and subsequent battery recharge management issues (discussed under Bicycle Expedition Long Term Travel Issues Checklist). For voice activated transmission, so far there is no perfect electronic communication system, they often exist in a delicate balance between capturing wind noise (too noisy) and quiet (missing some spoken words). The push-to-speak models require hands off the handlebar to speak (which may not always be safe). Electronic communication systems can be problematic with helmets and eye glasses. Also, it is possible that a communication system may interfere with hearing sounds away from the bike (pedestrians, other bikers, shouted warnings, and emergency vehicles or operations). Some tandem teams have no trouble with electronic communication systems.

Synchronizing or Un-synchronizing the Pedals: We have evolved to having our pedals at 180 degrees out of phase. It isn't an issue until we get up to speed but at higher speeds, our combined hip swing-movement action gets fairly exaggerated and affects the bike ride. We have learned to make the down pedal stroke opposite from each other and thus the hip swing-movement action nullifies each of our hip swing actions, thus we get a smoother high speed ride. Hip swing does not seem to effect low speed actions.

Pedals at 90°s: We have experimented and discovered that pedals set 90°s give unusually good hill climb performance. Setting the pedals at 90°s is not pleasant for any other activity than climbing, so it isn't worth resetting tandem's crank and chain position just for climbing (unless one is performing a hill climbing race). But here is another big caveat, on a bike like a daVinci that has independent pedaling; it is worth it for the back seat person to manually get into a 90° out of phase motion to enhance the team's climbing capability (just for the climb).

Independent Pedaling: DaVinci Tandems, out of Denver, have independent pedaling. Their tandem bikes are not inexpensive, but if one can purchase such a bike, one will find that many pedaling and coasting issues go away. Independent pedaling is especially beneficial for riding with kids, new riders, tired riders, riders that have physical challenges, and/or riders that want to deal with less of the riding mechanical issues and more of the riding pleasure issues (touring, sightseeing, ...). In addition, independent pedaling facilitates the rider's choice to instantly ride in-phase, 180°s out of phase, or 90°s out of phase. It also allows each rider to position the pedal exactly where they want for a start. We have learned to let the back seat set the desired synchronization when riding a bike with independent pedaling.

Rider's Visual Field and Focus: More so than on single rider bikes, the Captain is often a little more focussed on steering and therefore what is in front. Consequently, the Captain is looking less to the sides. In addition, the Copilot cannot see through or over the Pilot (in most cases), so the Copilot tends to look more to the sides and has the time to see more to the sides. Consequently, the tandem Captain will appreciate being informed a little more about things happening to the sides. Naturally, the Captain needs to inform the Copilot about events up front. Also, as a consequence, the Copilot may lean to the side to see what is ahead (thus effecting steering). The Pilot needs to let the Copilot know of any major steering/directional changes. It is kind of freaky to sit in the backseat and not see a detour sign or road closed sign and suddenly the bike is going left or right and mentally one is still going straight.

Copilot Riding: Most people learn the following on their own but this is a reminder. Riding in a body position that is inline with the bike frame's geometric plane makes transport control easier for steering. Most Copilots just mimic the position of the Pilot. On the other hand, no one expects a Copilot to be motionless for an eight hour ride; Copilots do stretch, re-position on the seat, stand, or lean in such a way to see around a Pilot. We've even seen Pilots sensing a look around lean by a Copilot, such that the Pilot leans in the opposite direction - that sort of thing comes with experience, but it doesn't take long to develop such bike feeling sensations. So the best method behind all of this activity is just to move slowly and controlled and not at inopportune moments (straight and level - no problem, descent and high speed turn - problem). Copilots should let the Captain know when they are going to move around dramatically.

Riding on the back seat of a motorcycle takes more or less the same riding skill as riding on the back seat of a bicycle (except for the pedaling activity), the skills and experience transfer nicely. And, driving 'Two Up' on a motorcycle yields Captain experience that translates nicely to tandem bicycle touring.

Rear View Mirror Phenomenon: This circumstance especially addresses helmet mounted mirrors. Sometimes the Stoker is leaning slightly to see ahead or to see around the Captain. As the Captain leans to see the rear more clearly through the mirror, the Stoker subconsciously leans more into the [rear] field of vision, in order to see forward more clearly. Remember that the Stoker can do no wrong, so the Captain needs to ask the Stoker to 'Lean the other way, Please'. Sometimes the Stoker is winking at the Captain. Sometimes the Stoker wants attention. Pay attention Captain.

Traction: The weight on tandem bike tires is double that of single bike tires. Consequently, tandem bikes can ride on dirt road surfaces without tire knobs (in many cases) or with a reduced amount of knobs (like a road/dirt cross tire) with great traction. So, a couple of points: One, a person probably won't be taking a tandem bike on technical mountain bike trails, but one can take a tandem bike on dirt roads that may require knobby tires for a single rider bike but may not require knobbies on a tandem rider bike (perhaps needing a road/dirt cross tire in really loose material on slopes). We have been quite surprised at how well a slick tandem bike with 1.5 inches of width rides on dirt surfaces. Thus a tandem can go long distances on dirt while using wider street tires. This was brought to our attention, originally by Todd Shusterman (Owner of daVinci Tandems). Two, while many bikes tour combined dirt and hard roads like the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route on knobby tires, we have had success on a tandem running slightly wider street tires. The only difficulty that we have run into was on the same kind of loose hill climb dirt and slope that knobbies also slipped - No big deal, if a team cannot pedal, it happens that all tandems operate very well in push mode (just like single rider bikes).

Dogs: They are a fact of life. The more remote that one rides, the more likely that domestic dogs will be running free and the larger that the dogs will believe their territory. Also, groups of dogs act different and more aggressive than single dogs. Over time we have learned to tell the difference between an excited dog that wants to run with us and bark with excitement from a dog that would like to bite a piece of us. We are not going to get into animal physiology and tail up or down modes (or ear back or up). There are mean dogs out there and there are stupid dogs out there. Stupid dogs sense no danger to their selves and will run under a bike wheel - these are usually little dogs but some are Great Dane size. If they run under a front wheel it will mess up steering control and perhaps cause a crash. It will certinly hurt the dog (and hurt dogs often even bite their owners, let alone a stranger).

Dogs can tell the difference between a slow up-hill climb and a fast downhill run. They will nearly always take on a bike that is climbing. We now carry a Pepper Spray that is approved for U.S. Mail Carriers. We only use it as a last resort. Frankly, I am surprised at how effective it is to Shout the word 'NO' to a chasing dog. That command probably works on 80% of all dogs, domestic or foreign. Thus you now have a reason to learn the word meaning 'no' in different languages. You should hear me in French (Non!). Anyway, some people use an Air Horn with great effect. See Boating Air Horn for cyclists. The principles are that dog hearing is extra sensitive and loud noises will drive them off. This particular air horn was made for boats and can be recharged via a standard Schrader Valve fitting on the bottom, i.e., bicycle pumps can be used to re-pressure the air horn. Some people use water from their caged bottles and some people make their own pepper juice, all with fair results. My wife and I have each been bitten (by different dogs) and we operate at a higher level of defense. No rider has more defensive control capabilities than a back seat tandem rider with a free hand and no worries about steering.

Navigation: Depending on the bike set-up, point to point navigation may be performed by either the Pilot or Copilot. One of the problems for tandem bikes that break down for shipping is that they often have a shorter overall length than their non-shipping counter parts. Thus, one of the areas that gets shortened is in the area between the Stokers handlebar and the Pilots seat back. Some Stoker bar positions have enough room for a Stoker to place a map holder and map (many don't) or perhaps a GPS. Therefore, some Stokers may Navigate; AKA, a Pilot and Navigator team. Also see Navigation Tips and/or Learn Sun Navigation Methods.

Kicking the Captain Problem: This has to be a setup for a Freudian Projection joke, but it is a common problem that the Stoker's feet will slip off the pedals and kick the Captain in the calf or hamstring area. This usually happens at a bike start or during an intense hill climb and the Stoker is really putting a lot of effort into a power stroke, really trying to help the team get going, thus when the Stoker's foot slips it raps the Captain good. This happens to every tandem team and some of these raps can be so strong as to end the cycling activity for a day or two. It happened to us on a few different occasions and the Captain checked around and discovered that many Stoker pedals are setup with Toe Clips or Power Grips. Both Clips and Grips are relatively easy to slide the feet out when necessary. Our Tandem Stoker's Pedals now have Power Grips and both the Stoker and Captain are happy with the solution. By the way, if one is riding on a single-track/dirt-path situation where one wants the feet to be free, in most cases one can flip the pedal over and ride with feet free.

Disk Brakes: One, if it is a purchase option, get disk brakes! Two, if one can upgrade to disk brakes, do so. A 'fully loaded' Tandem bicycle will accelerate very quickly going downhill and it takes a lot of brake pad friction to slow it down. Disk brakes perform very well when wet (versus rim clamp style brakes, which by the way, wear down the wheel rim sides of the very wheels that one is riding with a doubled load factor - hmmm). We recommend cable operated disk brakes (versus hydraulic actuation), front and rear (8 inch diameter for each wheel). Avoid hydraulic brakes for shipping, too many potential destination issues. We remove and reinstall the rotors for shipping, no big deal, need a dedicated T-25 Torx driver for most cases and knowledge of how to mount the rotor bolts in a star pattern (just like you do for car tire lug nuts). A dedicated T-25 Torx driver will give a cyclist better assembly torque control than the T-25 driver that comes on some multi-tools.


• If a bike has two disk brakes and either one is working correctly, tandem cyclists can finish the tour or find an enroute bike shop to replace/repair said rotor/brake-system.
• We used to carry a spare rotor, with the technology still being relatively new, but we quit carrying a spare rotor in 2008. Most rotors were damaged in shipping (rotor mounted to the wheel), not on the road, the exception being extreme mountain biking; almost no problems for touring bike situations.
• Do carry one pair of replacement brake pads (they are light weight and very small), one must know how to replace the pads, it is simple but time consuming, it is a tiny fingers job or a delicate needle nose plier job).
• Not all disks use a T-25 driver, there are a few exception sizes out there (but know your bike's rotor bolt size/type requirement).
• Know your torque settings: Most rotor bolts need about 55 inch-pounds of torque (4.6 foot-pounds or 6.2 newtons), the big exceptions are Shimano at 18-35 inch-pounds and Hope at 36 inch-pounds.
• People are not supposed to touch brake rotor surfaces because the oil from fingers effects brake pad life and functionality (same rules as a Halogen Light Bulb, use Rubbing Alcohol to clean/remove body oil); we grip ours (for shipping/packing) by the inside edge and the outside edge and pack each rotor in a gallon sized zip lock type plastic bag, stored in a homemade corrugated cardboard envelope with a cardboard partition.
• Carry the bolts in one or two other plastic bags, depending on bolt type differences - We label our bags and reuse them over and over.

Wheel Rims, Brakes and Spokes: This is a big deal. Tandem wheels are typically carrying twice the load as a single rider bike. Wheel Rims have a lot of stress on them (lateral, axial, and torsional [fore and aft especially from braking, but tandem riders can apply more starting torque than single riders]). The very best scenario, at present, is an 'A' shaped rim (sometimes called Aero), double walled (spoke wall + outer wall), tapered sidewall (redundant wording) with disk brakes (mounted on the hub); thicker than stock issue round spokes (2.0 mm or bigger = 14 gauge or smaller g value), using a 3x or 4x lacing pattern (4 cross preferred, 3 cross quite OK), with a count of 48 spokes (48 is best in the 26 inch to 700 mm wheel size (27.5 inches), 40-44 OK, usually in multiples of 4). These rims can be found on the internet, if nothing else, daVinci Tandems makes their own Aero type rims and will sell rims or wheels to your specifications to you or to your designated bike shop (usually the safest option).

In lieu of an Aero shaped rim, which will not work with clamping brakes of any kind, then be sure to get Heavy Duty Rims for any clamp brake system. Hub brakes are better/safer than rim/clamp brakes - tandems need at least double stopping power. Also, to a point, more spokes and thicker spokes are better than what comes with most stock issue rims. Plus a Tandem cycle needs thicker walls on the rim (both, for touring loads and for heavy duty rim braking requirements) - again, hub brakes are safety justified over rim brakes, but disk brakes are best (usually with 8 inch rotors).

Wind - Advantage Tandem (Only for a Direct Head Wind): On singles (single rider bikes), it is common to be brought to a near stop in a good head-on wind, but not so much on a tandem. One will certainly feel the effects of wind on a tandem but it is not as bad as riding a single. I suppose that there is a slight advantage to having the Stoker permanently drafting the Captain (resistance of one rider, not two), such that energy transmitted to the wheel is more so than on a single. Plus tandems have a little more mass; almost double that of a single bike (so Newton's 1st Law of Motion applies as inertia maintains a tandem body in motion a little better in gusty winds). Side winds seem to leave a tandem a little more exposed than on a single, but it's manageable. Quartering head winds and side winds are tougher to negotiate and require the most energy output (as more rider surface area is exposed to the wind, ergo maximized wind vector force). However a quartering tail wind is a dream speed situation, welcome to Sailing 101.



Conjecture: Perhaps Tandems generally travel a slightly slower than their counterparts on fully loaded tours, but in head wind situations they seem to travel a little better than their counterparts. Maybe Tandems are the 'Sailers' of the cycling world [not Sailors], like some average horses called Mudders do better in wet conditions than most other race horses. It's pure conjecture (or maybe wishful thinking). - Dennis -

Falling Sideways: Who wants to admit or acknowledge that bikes fall over or even crash? We had one incident where we were turning for a stop (slowing from 3 MPH to 0 MPH) and the front wheel got caught in a sideways turn in superfine powder and the bike went straight but the riders were leaning in what was a turn and subsequently the riders fell over. It was a virtual zero speed fall to the side.

If this happens to you: Do NOT worry about the bike; take immediate action to soften the blow to the ground. If one can, step into the fall direction with one's foot, but no matter what put one's arm or even both arms out into the fall direction. Place the arm(s) out with a little bend at the elbow (not a stiff arm). It's that easy. [I apologize to the reader but I have to make a negative statement, Do NOT lock one's grip onto the handlebars and do nothing - take action!] The Captain is going to feel like a Poo Poo Head, the Stoker needs to say something nice. A good Captain will be worried about the Stoker's condition. BTW, there is an article on How to Survive a Crash, written by Moi (Good reading for a rainy day).

Tour Decompression - Short Stories: After we ride a long tandem tour together, the Captain, while driving a motor vehicle frequently calls out the maneuvers or conditions, 'Right Turn' or 'Bumps', still in Captain Mode. When riding single rider bikes, after a long tour, the Stoker frequently drafts the Captain (on another bike) and subconsciously synchronizes the pedal rotation. Meanwhile, the Captain frequently calls out for a down shift, 'Down' or 'Down-Down', unconsciously, when the Stoker is around and the Stoker responds. Verly Intaresting, Dis Behavor.

For Tandem Bicycle Touring, use the Bicycle Touring Checklist with/without the Bicycle Camping Checklist.
- - - - - - - - - - -

For additional and noteworthy tandem issues or experiences, reader input will be appreciated - Dennis.

Two Rules for Tandem Biking
  (paraphrasing Bill McCready and John Schubert):

1. The Stoker Can Do No Wrong.
2. Read Rule #1.


Once the bike Captain understands Rule #1 and Rule #2,
then 99.99% of all team work problems go away.

BIG Riding Issue: COMMUNICATION

Tandem Bicycle Communication Terms

The Stoker needs to know
changes to the status quo.

Nice mantra, iambic pentameter too! - Dennis

THUS,

Certain Actions need to be communicatied beforhand, for example a warning for a shift about to occur (so that the Pilot and Stoker can pause the heavy presure on a pedal to allow a derailer chain/sprocket change) or an advisement of a Dog ahead or a caution for Stopping. Stokers also communicate information to the Captain, like a need to trim a derailer (chain/basket rub) or to validate which ring is driving the chain or that a Deer is standing at 3 O'clock (stokers get more looking around time while Captains spend more time looking forward).

Captains can get quite good at communicating events to Stokers and vice versa. Consequently, each tandem team evolves their own terminology and methods for communication.

There are no 'Carved in Stone' rules for communication, however there are common issues that all tandem riders face.

Tandem Bicycle Communication Terms That Have Evolved:

Everyone evolves their own terms. I doubt if we have invented anything new. Not all communication is spoken; we often do not say the word 'dog' as the sound may attract a dog that is otherwise unknowing of our presence. We may use the silent signal for 'dog' (upside down hook-um-horns) or 'animals about' (right side up hook-um-horns) signal. See Signals / Silent Signals from the previous Signals Section.

We're still adding terms here, we don't always remember to write them down (feel free to share anything with us). The following will shed some light on some of the events that are shared between a Captain and a Stoker:

Captain (Driving/Startup):

Mount, Mount-Up, Saddle-Up
Stoker: Saddle-Up and Strap in Feet.
Ready
Stoker: Ready, Cocked, OK or such. Sometimes the Ready statement comes from a Stoker before the Captain is ready and sometimes it means lets go Now.
Coast, Coast(ing)-to-Stop
Stoker stops pedaling and makes a quick look around for safety. Sometimes, this is just a downhill coast, but at other times the Captain may be maneuvering/steering around things or performing major shifting in order to either be able to prepare a start from a stop or prepare for climbing a hill.
Turning, Left-Turn, Right-Turn
Captain is Turning as soon as it's safe, The Stoker has two roles: 1) The Stoker should validate that it is clear/safe to make the maneuver, and 2) The Stoker should automatically get a signal up. The Stoker should verbally respond with something like: Clear/NOT-clear, Signal-Up, Signal-Down. Signals are best held for three seconds and should never be lazy. Ray Hanson (Adventure Cycling tour guide) reports that his Copilot moves her fingers in and out to simulate a blinking signal (it's a smart attention getter).
Lane-Jump {Left|Right}
A Lane-Jump is usually a prelude to a left turn (In Right-Side Traffic: moving from the right side of the road to the left side of the same lane or moving from a right turn lane to the left side of the lane so as to drive straight through an intersection). The Stoker should automatically get a signal up. The Stoker should verbally respond with something like: Clear/NOT-clear, Signal-Up, Signal-Down.
Track-Jump {Left|Right}
A Track-Jump is a pathway change on a two-track dirt road from one path to another (usually avoiding soft dirt, water/mud, fist rocks, or something of that nature). Sometimes the command is used on hard roads so as to position out of a right turn lane to drive through with the straight through traffic (or something of that nature). While a signal may not be formally/legally required, the Stoker should verbally respond with something like: Clear/NOT-clear and sometimes Signal-Up, Signal-Down.
Signal-Left, Signal-Right, Signal-Stop, Signal-Rest
Signal-Rest is usually alternating stop and right signal on right side driving roads or Left-Signal on left side driving roads.
It seems that it does not matter which arm is used for a signal, Car drivers seem to get it either way.
Wave
Stoker waves at x (other cyclists, people, kids, trains, ...)
Wave-Them-By, Wave-um-By (Team Optional)
Signal to a vehicle that it is clear to pass (Cyclists will see over hills or around corners before the following driver. See Courtesy Signaling for vehicle signal involvement.
Hold-Them, Hold-Um (Team Optional)
Signal to a vehicle that it is NOT Clear for passing (Cyclists will see over hills or around corners before the following driver, see Courtesy Signaling for vehicle signal involvement)
We have actually signal stopped drivers (halt signal) who were going to pass us with oncoming traffic that they did not see. I'm convinced that we have saved lives, including our own lives a couple of times (by paying attention to this issue).
Slowing, Braking
Stoker usually does not need to signal, Captain will call for it if necessary; Captain slows the bike, significantly, often a cautionary exercise associated with or followed by shifting and/or maneuvering.
Stopping
This is a Warning to the Stoker to mentally/physically prepare for stopping. The Stoker needs to quit pedaling as the Captain is likely downshifting for the subsequent Standing Start. A Stoker should signal a slowdown and/or stop and/or a turn. Note that stopping on dirt, especially at the edge of a hard road, may be very abrupt, as Captains learn that they can lose control of the front balance in soft dirt; stopping in soft dirt on a lateral incline is problematic as the wheel may want to gravitate laterally and not in the steering direction. Sometimes, road sides have soft dirt filled ruts and these hidden ruts too are difficult to navigate. In most rut or wheel slip situations, the best action is to stop immediately and at least keep the bike upright. Most Stokers know this, but the action may still catch everyone by surprise.
Shift, Shift Up, Up Shift, Up, Up-Up, Up-Up-Up, Shift Down, Down Shift, Down, Down-Down
Stoker takes the pressure off the pedal brief enough to allow a shift or multiple shifts. Often, what the Stoker hears is "Shift." Shift, without the word Major, indicates only a rear derailer shift.
Major, Major-Down, Major-Up, Major-Shift, Major-Shift-Down, Major-Shift-Up
For us, using the word 'Major' always indicates a front ring chain change but it does not exclude a rear derailer change. It is especially helpful for the Stoker to advise as to which ring the chain is on, we use numbers (the numbers that match the shifter grip numbers, no matter actual existence).
Gear-Setting-n (forward Ring), Gear-Setting m-n (Forward-Rear Ring) Statement
Note: Some Bikes have four forward rings. For us, 1-1 is Low-Low, 4-9 is High-High (using the numbers that are or would be on a shifter). This statement lets the stoker know the gear settings (or intended gear setting). The statement can be just an FYI, but sometimes the Captain is informing the Stoker that they have run out of the shifting range temporarily, as in an 1-9 cross chain situation where the Captain knows that the team will be down shifting in a few seconds time, so why waste time/effort trying to change a major ring and back.
Out of Up's, No More Up's
The Captain has run out of up gear sprockets to shift. This event is usually followed by a Major Up statement. On rare occasion, the team could stand to have another higher gear setting but such does not exist for the bike, the bike is maxed out (High-High).
Gear-Setting? or something like 3?
Stated as a Question by the Captain, the Stoker informs captain of the forward ring setting; says 1 or Granny, 2, 3, 4 or such.
Stand / Sit
Captain calling for power or relaxation modes, usually associated with some shifting. Sometimes this is a visual-communication (when the Captain stands on a crank, so does the Copilot).
Pedal
• 'Pedal' can be a low speed maneuver where the Captain is turning the bike around, sometimes on foot with the stoker mounted, but it helps if the Stoker keeps a little pressure on the drive-train.
• 'Pedal' can be a low speed maneuver when the Captain may be very occupied only with steering (like in a park or an event with a lot of other standing/walking people, or for low speed turns where a little forward speed on the rear wheel helps prevent falling). Also, the Captain may be working the brakes at the same time.
• 'Pedal' can be a statement for an uphill climb where two engines need to keep the pedal pressure on for a particularly steep or tricky segment.
Pedals Level
At Issue: A tandem's longer wheelbases sometimes causes a pedal or crank ring or chain to run across an object (or dirt mound) where as a single rider bike's shorter frame would allow a rider to run over an object without the object hitting the bottom of the bike.
• So, for riding a tandem over uneven terrain that juts upward like limbs or trail ditches with elevated brims that are as high or higher as a down pointing pedal then ride with the Pedals Level.
• Sometimes riding over a curb will have the same issue (so Pedals Level or walk the bike).
• Sometimes on a downhill run it is too late to do anything but ride over the object, Pedals Level, and in such a situation the cyclists don't need to be pedaling (not like going uphill where one must pedal or push).
• If the Captain rises out of the seat (standing/jump/bumps position), so should the Copilot (sometimes things get too busy for the Captain to remember call out Stand).
Pedal-Up
• This can be a group riding command or tandem. While waiting to start pedaling, especially at a stop light/signal (or something like that), the Leader/Captain (or someone else that sees that the light is about to turn green) will say Pedal-Up which means be cocked and ready to roll when the light turns Green/Go.
• The command can be used to get a group of riders to Get-Set and Ready to move-out - There may not be a Go Command, the Leader just starts pedaling.
Bump, Bumps, Hole
Hang On, Hunker Down, expect erratic handling/steering. Of course the worse holes are the ones that are not seen, they usually live around intersections where the Captain is engaging his or her attention elsewhere.
Water
On our bike, sometimes it means that the Copilot will lift her non-waterproof shoes up high while the Pilot deals with pedaling, sometimes it means to stand on horizontal pedals (Pedals Level) and glide through puddles, sometimes it means that feet are going to get wet (Pedal).
Glass
Glass, pay attention and mimic the Captain. The Captain may be coasting, braking, or pedaling, and some erratic steering may be involved
Sand (Soft-dirt, Sand, Wash-debris); Bumps (Ruts, Wash-Board, Degraded Road); Water (Mud, Puddles):
All are road conditions and/or hazard warnings. Stoker, hang on for wheel slip and/or mud splatter and/or rapid maneuvering and/or deceleration and/or bumps. In some wet scenarios, the Captain may be caling for a Stand and/or Level-Pedals.
Dirt-Road, Hard-Road (Road Surface Transition):
Stoker gets ready for dirt road riding and sometimes the initial roughness of the road, or the stoker gets ready for road smoothness and associated quiet (always a joy).
More-Power-Scotty!
Stoker: Laughs, "I'm given er all I got Cap'n!"
Arrg!
Usually a noise made at the same time as a miss shift, late shift, or multi shift; it may be associated with chain-sprocket-cage grinding. Sometimes it is associated with a "that's OK" pat on the back.

Captain (Communicating):

Car-Front, Car-Back, Car-Both, Car-Front-and-Back
(also Truck, Bus, Bike, People, Kids [Children], ...).
A situation awareness statement, particularly important when cars are coming both directions and will meet somewhere around the bike riders (implies snug fit and captain steering next to road edge). Our best call yet was 'Cows-Front'.
Always slowdown around kids, they do unexpected things, and more importantly they always admire a Fully Loaded Tandem; nothing like a 8 year old saying 'WOW' (that feeling will last for hours).
Deer, Animal, named-animal, x O'clock (12 O'clock is straight ahead)
'Eww and Aww' moment, sometimes leading to a photo opportunity, stop, or break.
Sometimes it's a warning.
Sometime a smart Captain will lean away from the best viewing angle for the Copilot to see forward.
Photo, Photo-Stop, Photo-Op, Picture Time
Stopping, often wildly, sometimes a danger when other cyclists are around.
Dog
The bane of all good tours. Beware of nippers and stupid little ones that like to get in front of the bike. This may be a silent hand signal, See Silent Signals from the previous Signals Section.
Front-Ring:Rear-Cog: 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, Low:Low, Granny:Granny, High:High, X:Y
Captain is informing the Stoker of what the sprocket (gear) settings are (same as the twist grip numeric indicators when present - also jokingly called 'Channels' for kids (big and little), as in 'Chanel 13' where it means the 1:3 gear combination [Front-Ring:Rear-Cog]). The Front Ring is always stated first. Some folks use letters for the front Rings (John Barnett uses H, M, and L), the inner most of three rings being 'L'. Numbers start from the frame and sequence outward. The 'Gear' Settings are often stated by the Captain as an FYI to the Stoker on long climbs and fast runs. Technically, the original 'Granny' gear was the 3rd ring (vs 2 ring road bikes) and is the smallest front ring; The term Granny has evolved to sometimes include the large or extra large rear sprocket/cog, too (ergo Granny:Granny).

Stoker (Drive Train or Power related):

Shift, Down-Up
An up or downshift request, a speed versus torque issue, an RPM cadence issue, or the Copilot is pedaling and the Pilot is coasting (independent pedal system). There are times when a major up-shift is needed, but the Captain has already mentally planned for a down shift in 20 to 50 yards/meters, so the Captain may just leave the ring/sprocket combination right where it is - The Captain may something like 'Down-Shift Coming' or 'Out-of-Ups' or words to that effect.
Trim, Trim-In, Trim-Out, Grinding-Rear, Grinding-Front
Captain needs to shift or trim (chain-sprocket alignment issue or chain-derailer alignment issue). Trim is usually a front derailer issue. Trim-In means to move the basket Inboard toward the center of the bike. Trim-Out is to move the basket outward. On the rear derailer, either shift or adjust the cable tension. Which way to trim comes with experience.
Standing, Stand-Up
For power or for a variety of situational issues, stretch, having a moment, act of bravery, ... , but letting the Captain know.

Stoker (Communicating):

Break, Water, Water-Break, Snack-Break, Food-Break, Lunch-Break
Time to stop and get off the road - it can be a bladder break too.
Stop
Depending on tone, this may necessitate a quick stop or a gentle stop: loose shoe laces, loose strap, open saddle bag, ... ; stokers always have a good reason for stopping.
Y at X O'clock (Stoker gets to look around more than the Captain)
Turkey at 3 O'clock. Pilot observes, if practical.
Clear-Left, Clear-Right
Helping the Captain to see well (because the Stoker can see side to side a little easier than the Captain.
Slow-Down
Remember, the Stoker can do no wrong. My Stoker has a built in governor which always kicks in at exactly 29 mph. Remember that Stokers are capable of causing immediate physical pain or delayed pain, it is always best to accommodate the Stoker.

Nature or Wild Life Observations:

1. People who ride horses in wilderness areas know that a person on horseback can ride by other wild game, sometimes they can ride directly through a herd of deer, antelope, or even elk, and the wild game will not be disturbed enough to run away. The animals will just stand there and look at you and your mount out of curiosity as long as the rider and horse does not make noise, stop, make any sudden movements, or stare too much. Wild animals know that horses are herbivores and they are not frightened, even when a human is sitting on top of the horse. Don't know why this is, it just is.
2. We have discovered that wild animals often have the same reaction to people riding solo bicycles as they do solo people riding horses. It helps if the bikes and riders are relatively quiet. Usually, unless there is a camera at hand, any motion to dig out a camera will only scare the game away. Stopping will definitely scare the game away. Often the best thing to do is to just keep casually pedaling and just visually soak in the moment. It has happened many times with us. We once saw a spotted fawn try to jump a log on the ground and get belly stuck on the log with legs on each side, the mommy nervously came back to nose the fawn over the log. It was a priceless moment. Conversely, for whatever reason, wild animals are afraid of 2-up tandem bicycles and will turn tail immediately.
3. Always, the act of starring at a wild herbivore is a threat, and the response is flight (running to exit which hopefully one is not blocking). Starring at a carnivore is also a threat but the act may trigger a fight (charge or attack). Pointing a camera at an animal and centering one's head and body in line with the camera can be very threatening. Thus, learning how take camera snap shots from the hip or chest area and at a 45 to 90 degree angle from one's frontal alignment while not starring at the animal may produce snap shots that do not intimidate the animals. Interestingly, with digital cameras, if a photographer is looking at the camera's monitor screen to see an animal and not looking directly at the animal, then one is satisfying good picture taking needs while not threatening the animal by looking at it directly - just insure that the photographer and the camera are not directly facing the animal or all in line with the animal.


In the American West, he is called a 5 Point Buck; in the American East, he is called a 10 Point Buck.

4. Noises will scare animals. When possible, turn off all sound to cameras, phones, and watches so as to be able to quietly take pictures.
5. Human Nature Humor: Wrist watches that make Beeping Noises seem to make managers and leaders be brief. Also, looking at one's watch will help keep a meeting short.
6. We have learned that animals often do NOT run away from single rider bikes acting in a non-stressful manner. HOWEVER, many animals DO RUN AWAY from tandem rider bikes - it's hurtful to the ego.

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